Tuesday 28 December 2010
Wednesday 22 December 2010
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from Oz
To everyone following (and hopefully enjoying) our blog here's wishing you a magical Christmas and a happy and healthy 2011. Naturally we'll be missing family & friends - but obviously not the Arctic conditions back in the UK - and will raise a glass or two to you on the big day. Enjoy the fun & festivities.
Love John & Chris xx
Saturday 18 December 2010
Cape Tribulation & Far North Queensland
Cape Tribulation is as far north as we go in Queensland. This is one of the very few places on the planet where tropical rainforest and ocean collide. Lush, dense and verdant vegetation meets the Great Barrier Reef, with just a tiny strand of sand and a few metres of turquoise sea separating them.
It is quite simply a magical place. To get there we must cross the forbidding crocodile-infested muddy brown waters of the Daintree River by a cable-winched car ferry which runs every 15 minutes. It takes just a couple of minutes to cross the river (no croc sightings today), but when you land on the other side you enter another world - an almost primitive, jungle-like one.
It is 34km to the Cape and we continue on our way on a narrow twisty road snaking north, with deep and dark forest either side of us. We cross numerous rickety wooden bridges over rivers, creeks and swamps - the haunt of our croc friends.
The foliage is thick, the heat and humidity intense. The sky feels heavy too and, although we know the sea is close, there are few sightings of it along the way. We feel a little claustrophobic - a sense of being hemmed in by nature at its most powerful.
This is 'I'm A Celebrity, Get Me Out Of Here' country, but we don't intend to eat any tiny creatures of the forest just yet - and nor do we intend getting eaten by the bigger ones out there either.
We start to climb upwards and pull over at the Cape Kimberley Beach lookout - one of the few spots affording a view of the ocean. It looks out towards the mouth of the Daintree River, with the ominously-named Snapper Island offshore and views back out across the Coral Sea south towards Port Douglas and, further south again in the far distance, the Northern Beaches beyond Cairns.
For the first time on our travels we feel a little uneasy and a long way from civilisation. The beauty of this remote, sparsley-populated region is undeniably breath-taking, but its very isolation gives it a palpable edge too.
The nearest town north is Cooktown - 104km away on a coastal dirt-track road known as the Bloomfield Track which only 4WDs can traverse and which often becomes totally impassable even to them after heavy rain. Torrential rain can cut off some sections at a drop of a hat, so our little rental car would not stand the ghost of a chance.
We decide to treat ourselves and book into the Ferntree Rainforest Lodge deep in the heart of the forest - there is little accommodation along the shore - and make our base there for the next couple of nights. We have a nice room and there's a lovely swimming pool and an attractive Balinese-style restaurant alongside.
The next morning we head out to The Cape itself - one of the most gorgeous spots either of us has ever clapped eyes on. Named by Captain James Cook after his ship the Endeavour ran aground on the reef here back in 1770, Cape Tribulation (the great man obviously saw it as a place of trouble and despair, rather than of beauty - well his ship did get holed here) is a lovely yet lonely arc of white-sand, palm-fringed beach backed by mangrove swamps, ferns and eucalyptus trees.
It is a World Heritage listed area - and no wonder. It scores 10 out of 10 on the wow factor scale. We are so lucky. Normally The Wet (tropical and torrential rain) has arrived by now, but we view it on a perfect day.
Spend the evening at the restaurant at Ferntree and meet up with mother and daughter Tracey and Charlotte, who hail from the Swindon area. They ask us if we have spotted the Golden Orb spider nestled in its web near an outdoor table at which we had sat earlier. No, we say, but when they show it to us we feel an overwhelming sense of relief that we decided to opt for a table inside instead. Venomous it may not be, but its size and appearance gives it a menacing aura. Back in our room that night we check bed (pillows, sheets and underneath it), bath, toilet and shower for any creepy-crawlies that may be lurking in or around. What lies beneath? Has paranoia set in? Probably. But we aren't taking any chances. This is a world away to what we are used to, and we are playing it safe. Coast appears clear. Time then for a decent night's sleep - Golden Orbs and pals permitting.
Crocodile spotting on the Daintree
Decide to take boat ride on the Daintree River in the hope of spotting a 'saltie' (a saltwater crocodile which can live in both fresh and salt water, and the world's largest living reptile). Our 'Crocodile Dundee' on the Bruce Belcher Daintree River cruise is boatman Freddie.
With just one other couple from Holland on board our motor boat off we go and it's not long before Freddie spots a female croc on the riverbank. She's around two metres long - males can grow up to an astonishing six metres - and is happily sunning herself among the mangrove trees, quite oblivious to our camera clicking from the safety of our vessel. That's quite close enough, Freddie. We can see fine from here.
We head out into deeper water and a little later catch sight of her again. She has stirred from her slumbers and is snaking gracefully along one of the waterway's many channels. We get right up close now. There's a good view of her head and torso as she drifts along the swollen brown river.
Mission accomplished. We have spotted a croc. We feel as pleased as punch, and also like adventurers on The African Queen.
Port Douglas
Known as Port Dougie this is the smaller equivalent of Cairns. Low-rise development sits on a four-mile golden beach. It's a lively, cosmopolitan seaside town as far removed from Cape Tribulation as it is possible to be. It's all very safe and genteel here, with palm trees fringing the shore and waves lapping the shore.
Cafes, bars and upmarket restaurants make up the main street. Prices pretty steep here too - this is a glam, glitzy kind of place after our 'hideaway' Cape Trib experience, but we manage to slake our thirst and not dig too deep into our pockets at Port Douglas Yacht Club, which also offers great marina views from its large decking area.
Mossman Gorge
A day trip from Port Douglas or Cairns takes you to this jewel of a gorge where the towering Mount Demi lords it over all. It's a tranquil get-away-from-it-all kind of a place, with a fabulous walking trail taking you deep into the heart of the forest. At the foot of the gorge lie some swimming holes, which can be treacherous after heavy rain.
It had rained hard and heavy the night before our visit and the normally crystal-clear pools were a torrent of muddy brown swirling water. Swimming the holes was a definite no no.
However the deeper you went into the forest there were some shallow little creeks and inviting rock pools in which to dip our toes and cool off. That would do us nicely, thank you.
Atherton Tablelands
At the heart of the Tablelands, which lie inland from the coast between Cairns in the north and Innisfall in the south, are the Millaa Millaa Falls, which must rate as among the most scenic in the world (if you saw our Christmas greetings. we are the ugly mugs spoiling the view of it).
It is part of a 16km circuit of waterfalls in the Tableands, a silver sheet of water dropping dramtically into a fern-fringed pool. You can walk behind it or swim in the natural pool at its bottom.
We did neither (hadn't packed our swimmers), so just enjoyed its splendour, as we did that of the nearby Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls, both very different but equally beautiful in their own way.
From there we head over the Tablelands, taking in two volcanic crater lakes Barrine and Eacham. At Barrine we stop at a lakeside cafe/restaurant specialising in Devonshire teas. How very British. Naturally we must try it (sadly no Welsh cakes to be seen) - and delicious too were the scones, clotted cream and jam - very much a case of naughty but nice.
Fortified (well a bit stuffed actually), we carry on to the pretty little village of Yungaburra where Chris, with The Far East in mind, treats herself to some new summer dresses at a quaint little boutique (and lovely you looked in them too, Mrs W).
Shopping done and dusted, we take in a beguiling and bewitching sight - a giant 500-year-old Curtain Fig Tree. It has aerial roots that hang down over it creating a curtain-like effect, akin to a waterfall. It's like something out of a sci-fi, or fantasy movie - weird, but very wonderful and totally majestic.
Trinity Beach and return to Cairns
Our stay in Queensland is coming to an end - next stop Ayers Rock - but we have a few days left. Decide to chill out at Trinity Beach, one of the Northern Beaches - and one of the prettiest in our book.
Manage to find a nice suite at low cost (this Wet season is working well for us). Lovely beach to laze around on with plenty of shade from trees fringing it.
Spend the last two days back where we started in Cairns - at the Floriana guesthouse and the same self-contained flat where we stayed a week earlier. It is like 'going home.' Tomorrow, though, it will be goodbye to the Floriana, Cairns and Queensland and hello to The Rock.
It is quite simply a magical place. To get there we must cross the forbidding crocodile-infested muddy brown waters of the Daintree River by a cable-winched car ferry which runs every 15 minutes. It takes just a couple of minutes to cross the river (no croc sightings today), but when you land on the other side you enter another world - an almost primitive, jungle-like one.
It is 34km to the Cape and we continue on our way on a narrow twisty road snaking north, with deep and dark forest either side of us. We cross numerous rickety wooden bridges over rivers, creeks and swamps - the haunt of our croc friends.
The foliage is thick, the heat and humidity intense. The sky feels heavy too and, although we know the sea is close, there are few sightings of it along the way. We feel a little claustrophobic - a sense of being hemmed in by nature at its most powerful.
This is 'I'm A Celebrity, Get Me Out Of Here' country, but we don't intend to eat any tiny creatures of the forest just yet - and nor do we intend getting eaten by the bigger ones out there either.
We start to climb upwards and pull over at the Cape Kimberley Beach lookout - one of the few spots affording a view of the ocean. It looks out towards the mouth of the Daintree River, with the ominously-named Snapper Island offshore and views back out across the Coral Sea south towards Port Douglas and, further south again in the far distance, the Northern Beaches beyond Cairns.
For the first time on our travels we feel a little uneasy and a long way from civilisation. The beauty of this remote, sparsley-populated region is undeniably breath-taking, but its very isolation gives it a palpable edge too.
The nearest town north is Cooktown - 104km away on a coastal dirt-track road known as the Bloomfield Track which only 4WDs can traverse and which often becomes totally impassable even to them after heavy rain. Torrential rain can cut off some sections at a drop of a hat, so our little rental car would not stand the ghost of a chance.
We decide to treat ourselves and book into the Ferntree Rainforest Lodge deep in the heart of the forest - there is little accommodation along the shore - and make our base there for the next couple of nights. We have a nice room and there's a lovely swimming pool and an attractive Balinese-style restaurant alongside.
The next morning we head out to The Cape itself - one of the most gorgeous spots either of us has ever clapped eyes on. Named by Captain James Cook after his ship the Endeavour ran aground on the reef here back in 1770, Cape Tribulation (the great man obviously saw it as a place of trouble and despair, rather than of beauty - well his ship did get holed here) is a lovely yet lonely arc of white-sand, palm-fringed beach backed by mangrove swamps, ferns and eucalyptus trees.
It is a World Heritage listed area - and no wonder. It scores 10 out of 10 on the wow factor scale. We are so lucky. Normally The Wet (tropical and torrential rain) has arrived by now, but we view it on a perfect day.
Spend the evening at the restaurant at Ferntree and meet up with mother and daughter Tracey and Charlotte, who hail from the Swindon area. They ask us if we have spotted the Golden Orb spider nestled in its web near an outdoor table at which we had sat earlier. No, we say, but when they show it to us we feel an overwhelming sense of relief that we decided to opt for a table inside instead. Venomous it may not be, but its size and appearance gives it a menacing aura. Back in our room that night we check bed (pillows, sheets and underneath it), bath, toilet and shower for any creepy-crawlies that may be lurking in or around. What lies beneath? Has paranoia set in? Probably. But we aren't taking any chances. This is a world away to what we are used to, and we are playing it safe. Coast appears clear. Time then for a decent night's sleep - Golden Orbs and pals permitting.
Crocodile spotting on the Daintree
Decide to take boat ride on the Daintree River in the hope of spotting a 'saltie' (a saltwater crocodile which can live in both fresh and salt water, and the world's largest living reptile). Our 'Crocodile Dundee' on the Bruce Belcher Daintree River cruise is boatman Freddie.
With just one other couple from Holland on board our motor boat off we go and it's not long before Freddie spots a female croc on the riverbank. She's around two metres long - males can grow up to an astonishing six metres - and is happily sunning herself among the mangrove trees, quite oblivious to our camera clicking from the safety of our vessel. That's quite close enough, Freddie. We can see fine from here.
We head out into deeper water and a little later catch sight of her again. She has stirred from her slumbers and is snaking gracefully along one of the waterway's many channels. We get right up close now. There's a good view of her head and torso as she drifts along the swollen brown river.
Mission accomplished. We have spotted a croc. We feel as pleased as punch, and also like adventurers on The African Queen.
Port Douglas
Known as Port Dougie this is the smaller equivalent of Cairns. Low-rise development sits on a four-mile golden beach. It's a lively, cosmopolitan seaside town as far removed from Cape Tribulation as it is possible to be. It's all very safe and genteel here, with palm trees fringing the shore and waves lapping the shore.
Cafes, bars and upmarket restaurants make up the main street. Prices pretty steep here too - this is a glam, glitzy kind of place after our 'hideaway' Cape Trib experience, but we manage to slake our thirst and not dig too deep into our pockets at Port Douglas Yacht Club, which also offers great marina views from its large decking area.
Mossman Gorge
A day trip from Port Douglas or Cairns takes you to this jewel of a gorge where the towering Mount Demi lords it over all. It's a tranquil get-away-from-it-all kind of a place, with a fabulous walking trail taking you deep into the heart of the forest. At the foot of the gorge lie some swimming holes, which can be treacherous after heavy rain.
It had rained hard and heavy the night before our visit and the normally crystal-clear pools were a torrent of muddy brown swirling water. Swimming the holes was a definite no no.
However the deeper you went into the forest there were some shallow little creeks and inviting rock pools in which to dip our toes and cool off. That would do us nicely, thank you.
Atherton Tablelands
At the heart of the Tablelands, which lie inland from the coast between Cairns in the north and Innisfall in the south, are the Millaa Millaa Falls, which must rate as among the most scenic in the world (if you saw our Christmas greetings. we are the ugly mugs spoiling the view of it).
It is part of a 16km circuit of waterfalls in the Tableands, a silver sheet of water dropping dramtically into a fern-fringed pool. You can walk behind it or swim in the natural pool at its bottom.
We did neither (hadn't packed our swimmers), so just enjoyed its splendour, as we did that of the nearby Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls, both very different but equally beautiful in their own way.
From there we head over the Tablelands, taking in two volcanic crater lakes Barrine and Eacham. At Barrine we stop at a lakeside cafe/restaurant specialising in Devonshire teas. How very British. Naturally we must try it (sadly no Welsh cakes to be seen) - and delicious too were the scones, clotted cream and jam - very much a case of naughty but nice.
Fortified (well a bit stuffed actually), we carry on to the pretty little village of Yungaburra where Chris, with The Far East in mind, treats herself to some new summer dresses at a quaint little boutique (and lovely you looked in them too, Mrs W).
Shopping done and dusted, we take in a beguiling and bewitching sight - a giant 500-year-old Curtain Fig Tree. It has aerial roots that hang down over it creating a curtain-like effect, akin to a waterfall. It's like something out of a sci-fi, or fantasy movie - weird, but very wonderful and totally majestic.
Trinity Beach and return to Cairns
Our stay in Queensland is coming to an end - next stop Ayers Rock - but we have a few days left. Decide to chill out at Trinity Beach, one of the Northern Beaches - and one of the prettiest in our book.
Manage to find a nice suite at low cost (this Wet season is working well for us). Lovely beach to laze around on with plenty of shade from trees fringing it.
Spend the last two days back where we started in Cairns - at the Floriana guesthouse and the same self-contained flat where we stayed a week earlier. It is like 'going home.' Tomorrow, though, it will be goodbye to the Floriana, Cairns and Queensland and hello to The Rock.
Wednesday 15 December 2010
Tuesday 14 December 2010
Hello Australia
G'day cobbers. We're having a bonzer time out here in Oz, so ripper in fact that we haven't updated our blog proper for yonks, so apologies for being such larrikins. No worries, though. Haven't gone walkabout on all our mates just yet.
Now that we've eaten our brekky today - and good tucker it was too - we can get down to being fair dinkum blokes again, instead of drongos, and I can tell you what Sheila and me have being doing with ourselves. So hang on to your didgeridoos, you beauts. Here goes...
Cairns
Flew into a very wet & wild Brisbane from Auckland. Quick overnight stop - the weather was that lousy we didn't set foot outside the front door of our hotel - and an internal flight north to tropical Cairns next morning, hugging east coast all the way up. Can see huge swathes of Great Barrier Reef below us.
Heat hits us as we step out of plane. It's 33C - and so humid with it. Doesn't take long to break into a sweat (about five seconds, tops).
Staying at Floriana - a quirky and charming little guesthouse on a quiet part of The Esplanade some 10 minutes walk from the city. It's low season (The Wet they call it, but no rain to speak of yet) so pick up a decent deal on a self-contained flat, with kitchen, balcony, bay window looking out to sea and lovely, comfy bed. As much as we enjoyed our six weeks in campervan in New Zealand to have this amount of space again is heaven.
Take a walk across road to see Cairns beach. Like Swansea Bay it's tidal, but there the similarity ends. There is very little sand here, just mudflats and mangroves. Swimming is a no no - there are signs warning of 'salties' (saltwater crocs). Nasty & 'orrible Salties aside, the sight of thousands of large mud crabs merrily scuttling about is enough to put anyone off venturing out on to it in the first place. Ugh.
However the wildflife the flats attract more than compensates - storks, pelicans and parrots of all colours inhabit the area, while at dusk the sky goes inky black with large bats (four times the size of any we have at home) taking flight from the fruit trees dotted around. Bram Stoker would have had a ball and Dracula fans would love it here.
Another big plus is the 4,800-sq-metre saltwater swimming lagoon where you can enjoy a good soak. It's a top spot to linger for a couple of hours when it gets too sticky.
Like Cairns a lot, so have decided to make base here for a week to explore this far northern part of Queensland - a land of ancient rainforests, gorgeous and remote white-sand beaches and, of course, the most famous reef in the world.
Kuranda Skyrail and Railway
Don our 'tourist' hats (our Tilleys are just the ticket in this tropical heat, to which we are slowly - very slowly - adjusting) for one of the world's longest gondola cablecar rides affording bird's-eye view over rainforest.
We have 'car' to ourselves for 7.5km long trip over forest. Great photo opportunities for sure, but not a great time for camera to pack in! It has jammed and is jiggered for sure.
Bit of a disappointment to say the least, but we get over it, refocus and concentrate on enjoying the view below us - you are almost touching the tops of the tropical trees - and also the one out towards Cairns, and The Coral Sea.
Destination is the sleepy little village of Kuranda, which wakes up only when the first tourists arrive in the morning and then promptly goes back to bed when they depart again on last train at 3.30pm or final cable car at 3.45pm. It's a neat little place to spend a couple of hours.
Highlight for us was The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary - a magical place where you step into an aviary of butterflies all the colours of the rainbow which freely flutter around you as you walk. There are thousands, and you are in the midst of them. John had thought it wouldn't be his scene, but on reflection is so glad his Sheila persuaded him to take this particular 'walk on the wild side.'
Head for station and return trip on Kuranda Scenic railway - great one-and-half-hour train trip back through the mountains and forests and over the Barron Gorge and a mammoth and spectacular high and wide waterfall.
Back in Cairns in time to buy one essential - a new camera before we head out onto Great Barrier Reef the following morning.
Great Barrier Reef
Greeted by a perfect day - blue skies, a calm sea and a camera that works! Mickey, a lovely lady at Floriana, has recommended Seastar - a small family-run business - for our trip out onto The Coral Sea and The Reef. Top choice, Mickey. Immediately impressed by professional, but laid-back and fun crew.
Two stops - Michaelmas Cay and Hastings Reef on The Outer Reef - on all-day trip. Fellow reef adventurers on board are either scuba-diving (some for first time), snorkelling or are just along for the ride.
We have gone for snorkelling option - and have been advised to wear special Lycra 'stinger' suits to protect us from box jellyfish. These marine menaces sport venemous tentacles which can grow up to three metres long - and swimmer fatalities have been recorded.
It's a no-brainer then. Stinger suits on, plus mask, snorkel and flippers (we look like something out of a James Bond movie, though maybe more Jaws than 007), we take the plunge into our Jacques Cousteau underwater world off first Michaelmas Cay.
We snorkel for 90 minutes over 15 to 20-metre drops off reef. Coral bleaching in evidence in parts, but still plenty of colour too - blues, pinks, oranges - and it's Sheila (sure her name was Chris back in Wales) who comes up trumps.
She has gone off on 'organised' tour off Michaelmas Cay beach with lead snorkel guide, while John has headed out to 'do his own thing' off dive boat.
Good call, girl. Chris and her group get to swim alongside giant female turtle of such grace and beauty for around five minutes. Mind-blowing to get so close to such a majestic and magnificent creature of the deep. Other highlights include giant clams and so many species fish. The whole reef is a kaleidoscope of colours.
Meet up with John back on boat for barbie lunch (boy those prawns taste good) and exchange experiences. Next up it's Hasting Reef - a different encounter. This is purely off boat, no cay or beach - and it's up to 30 metres deep in part.
A tired, but ecstatic, Chris sits this one out (she has done brilliantly on her first real big snorkelling foray in 'open water') - deciding on glass-bottom boat option for part two of adventure.
This time John (looking in his stinger outfit not remotely like the dashing James, or even The Lady Loves Milk Tray Man come to that) lucks out, getting a close encounter with a reef shark. They're harmless enough, but they still look pretty mean (it's the eyes wot does it), so he keeps his distance just in case - John that is. Perhaps the shark doesn't fancy his chances either with the Lycra-clad earth-dweller who has come to temporarily inhabit and invade his space.
One hour later after swimming among the turquoise parrot fish, the gorgeous five-striped sergeant major fish and stingrays too it's a weary climb up that ladder at back of boat. John reports to feeling exhilarated but exhausted (well and truly knackered were the actual words). A strong current didn't help either.
Now it's full throttle back to Cairns after a truly memorable day with the Seastar crew - a really great bunch of guys and gals who looked after us well and contributed so much to us experiencing one of the seven wonders of the natural world at first hand.
Lonely Planet reports that one BBC TV programme rates The Great Barrier Reef as second only to the Grand Canyon on a list of 50 Places To See Before You Die. Cor blimey. Been there, done that then - and magic it was too.
Northern Beaches
Quiet day on cards after GBR adventure. Chris heads off to find hair stylist and meets Michelle who hails from Dublin originally. She lives here with her boyfriend now and recommends some good cafes, bars and restaurants in city.
Pick up a hire car - we'll have it for seven days, so plan to head out of Cairns in next couple of days to explore Atherton Tablelands region, Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation where the tropical rainforest quite literally meets the sea ... but more of that later.
This afternoon we drive up a 26km stretch of coastline known as the Northern Beaches. There are six or seven of them which all have 'stinger-free nets' allowing you safe swimming in the sea.
We head out to Ellis Beach, the most remote of them all. It's a gorgeous stretch - a long sheltered bay with virtually no development. There is just a small beach bar across the road and some discreet oceanfront bungalows just feet from the sea.
Just the job - towels and books out, 'swimmers' (they're bathers back home) on and time to enjoy a nice lazy couple of hours busy doing nothing (and we don't get stung either). A result.
Now that we've eaten our brekky today - and good tucker it was too - we can get down to being fair dinkum blokes again, instead of drongos, and I can tell you what Sheila and me have being doing with ourselves. So hang on to your didgeridoos, you beauts. Here goes...
Cairns
Flew into a very wet & wild Brisbane from Auckland. Quick overnight stop - the weather was that lousy we didn't set foot outside the front door of our hotel - and an internal flight north to tropical Cairns next morning, hugging east coast all the way up. Can see huge swathes of Great Barrier Reef below us.
Heat hits us as we step out of plane. It's 33C - and so humid with it. Doesn't take long to break into a sweat (about five seconds, tops).
Staying at Floriana - a quirky and charming little guesthouse on a quiet part of The Esplanade some 10 minutes walk from the city. It's low season (The Wet they call it, but no rain to speak of yet) so pick up a decent deal on a self-contained flat, with kitchen, balcony, bay window looking out to sea and lovely, comfy bed. As much as we enjoyed our six weeks in campervan in New Zealand to have this amount of space again is heaven.
Take a walk across road to see Cairns beach. Like Swansea Bay it's tidal, but there the similarity ends. There is very little sand here, just mudflats and mangroves. Swimming is a no no - there are signs warning of 'salties' (saltwater crocs). Nasty & 'orrible Salties aside, the sight of thousands of large mud crabs merrily scuttling about is enough to put anyone off venturing out on to it in the first place. Ugh.
However the wildflife the flats attract more than compensates - storks, pelicans and parrots of all colours inhabit the area, while at dusk the sky goes inky black with large bats (four times the size of any we have at home) taking flight from the fruit trees dotted around. Bram Stoker would have had a ball and Dracula fans would love it here.
Another big plus is the 4,800-sq-metre saltwater swimming lagoon where you can enjoy a good soak. It's a top spot to linger for a couple of hours when it gets too sticky.
Like Cairns a lot, so have decided to make base here for a week to explore this far northern part of Queensland - a land of ancient rainforests, gorgeous and remote white-sand beaches and, of course, the most famous reef in the world.
Kuranda Skyrail and Railway
Don our 'tourist' hats (our Tilleys are just the ticket in this tropical heat, to which we are slowly - very slowly - adjusting) for one of the world's longest gondola cablecar rides affording bird's-eye view over rainforest.
We have 'car' to ourselves for 7.5km long trip over forest. Great photo opportunities for sure, but not a great time for camera to pack in! It has jammed and is jiggered for sure.
Bit of a disappointment to say the least, but we get over it, refocus and concentrate on enjoying the view below us - you are almost touching the tops of the tropical trees - and also the one out towards Cairns, and The Coral Sea.
Destination is the sleepy little village of Kuranda, which wakes up only when the first tourists arrive in the morning and then promptly goes back to bed when they depart again on last train at 3.30pm or final cable car at 3.45pm. It's a neat little place to spend a couple of hours.
Highlight for us was The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary - a magical place where you step into an aviary of butterflies all the colours of the rainbow which freely flutter around you as you walk. There are thousands, and you are in the midst of them. John had thought it wouldn't be his scene, but on reflection is so glad his Sheila persuaded him to take this particular 'walk on the wild side.'
Head for station and return trip on Kuranda Scenic railway - great one-and-half-hour train trip back through the mountains and forests and over the Barron Gorge and a mammoth and spectacular high and wide waterfall.
Back in Cairns in time to buy one essential - a new camera before we head out onto Great Barrier Reef the following morning.
Great Barrier Reef
Greeted by a perfect day - blue skies, a calm sea and a camera that works! Mickey, a lovely lady at Floriana, has recommended Seastar - a small family-run business - for our trip out onto The Coral Sea and The Reef. Top choice, Mickey. Immediately impressed by professional, but laid-back and fun crew.
Two stops - Michaelmas Cay and Hastings Reef on The Outer Reef - on all-day trip. Fellow reef adventurers on board are either scuba-diving (some for first time), snorkelling or are just along for the ride.
We have gone for snorkelling option - and have been advised to wear special Lycra 'stinger' suits to protect us from box jellyfish. These marine menaces sport venemous tentacles which can grow up to three metres long - and swimmer fatalities have been recorded.
It's a no-brainer then. Stinger suits on, plus mask, snorkel and flippers (we look like something out of a James Bond movie, though maybe more Jaws than 007), we take the plunge into our Jacques Cousteau underwater world off first Michaelmas Cay.
We snorkel for 90 minutes over 15 to 20-metre drops off reef. Coral bleaching in evidence in parts, but still plenty of colour too - blues, pinks, oranges - and it's Sheila (sure her name was Chris back in Wales) who comes up trumps.
She has gone off on 'organised' tour off Michaelmas Cay beach with lead snorkel guide, while John has headed out to 'do his own thing' off dive boat.
Good call, girl. Chris and her group get to swim alongside giant female turtle of such grace and beauty for around five minutes. Mind-blowing to get so close to such a majestic and magnificent creature of the deep. Other highlights include giant clams and so many species fish. The whole reef is a kaleidoscope of colours.
Meet up with John back on boat for barbie lunch (boy those prawns taste good) and exchange experiences. Next up it's Hasting Reef - a different encounter. This is purely off boat, no cay or beach - and it's up to 30 metres deep in part.
A tired, but ecstatic, Chris sits this one out (she has done brilliantly on her first real big snorkelling foray in 'open water') - deciding on glass-bottom boat option for part two of adventure.
This time John (looking in his stinger outfit not remotely like the dashing James, or even The Lady Loves Milk Tray Man come to that) lucks out, getting a close encounter with a reef shark. They're harmless enough, but they still look pretty mean (it's the eyes wot does it), so he keeps his distance just in case - John that is. Perhaps the shark doesn't fancy his chances either with the Lycra-clad earth-dweller who has come to temporarily inhabit and invade his space.
One hour later after swimming among the turquoise parrot fish, the gorgeous five-striped sergeant major fish and stingrays too it's a weary climb up that ladder at back of boat. John reports to feeling exhilarated but exhausted (well and truly knackered were the actual words). A strong current didn't help either.
Now it's full throttle back to Cairns after a truly memorable day with the Seastar crew - a really great bunch of guys and gals who looked after us well and contributed so much to us experiencing one of the seven wonders of the natural world at first hand.
Lonely Planet reports that one BBC TV programme rates The Great Barrier Reef as second only to the Grand Canyon on a list of 50 Places To See Before You Die. Cor blimey. Been there, done that then - and magic it was too.
Northern Beaches
Quiet day on cards after GBR adventure. Chris heads off to find hair stylist and meets Michelle who hails from Dublin originally. She lives here with her boyfriend now and recommends some good cafes, bars and restaurants in city.
Pick up a hire car - we'll have it for seven days, so plan to head out of Cairns in next couple of days to explore Atherton Tablelands region, Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation where the tropical rainforest quite literally meets the sea ... but more of that later.
This afternoon we drive up a 26km stretch of coastline known as the Northern Beaches. There are six or seven of them which all have 'stinger-free nets' allowing you safe swimming in the sea.
We head out to Ellis Beach, the most remote of them all. It's a gorgeous stretch - a long sheltered bay with virtually no development. There is just a small beach bar across the road and some discreet oceanfront bungalows just feet from the sea.
Just the job - towels and books out, 'swimmers' (they're bathers back home) on and time to enjoy a nice lazy couple of hours busy doing nothing (and we don't get stung either). A result.
Monday 6 December 2010
Sunday 5 December 2010
Farewell New Zealand
Return to Picton
One week left in The Land Of The Long White Cloud and we are heading back to Picton to catch the ferry for our return to the North Island. Helen, our Marlborough wine tour guide all of three weeks ago, is playing an acoustic folk set with a number of other musicians - some local, some travelling through - in a little Irish bar called Seamus's. We plan to see her there.
First, though, we call into Nelson on the way. It's a small port city and has been described as ''one of the most liveable cities in New Zealand.'' Can see why. It has the same timber-clad houses as Wellington, many perched high on the hillsides behind. But it is much smaller - a population of around 50,000 - and is the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park.
Home to the very first rugby match in NZ, we visit the park where that slice of history was made. We note that the Kiwis have got rather good at the sport since that memorable date. The botanical gardens housed in the park is also the geographical centre of NZ - literally its very heart.
Long journey ahead to make it in time to Picton so press on, but stop off at pretty spot called Pelorus Bridge, which has a grisly history. Back in mid-1800s a gang of notorious robbers on their way to do a bank job in Nelson murdered some poor soul here in the woods close to a deep river gorge. One of the gang confessed to the crime and lived to tell the tale, while the other three were hanged in Nelson and their bodies lie in the cemetery there. Happy days!
Back in Picton we enjoy a great night at Seamus's - good food, good banter and good music courtesy of Helen and other assembled folk musicians. Great to see her again - she plays a mean fiddle too.
Napier
10am next day we drive campervan onto ferry for our return crossing of Cook Strait. It's a gorgeous sunny day, with little wind this time around. Make for top deck and three-hour journey to Wellington passes pleasantly. Chris doesn't feel like Nanuka of the North this time around. In fact, she relaxes, taking in the rays.
Decide to push on to Napier on the East Coast - and glad we do. It's the art deco capital of the world. Eat your heart out, Miami. Destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1931 (hundreds lost their lives) Napier and its twin city Hastings some 20k away were rebuilt in the classic art deco style of the period.
Napier, situated on beautiful Hawke Bay, has its own art deco trail which you can follow at your leisure taking in the architecture, some of which is also Spanish Mission and reminds us a little of some of the adobe-type buildings of Santa Fe and Taos in New Mexico (wow, that seems an age away now).
A nation in mourning
Wake to hear dreadful news that 29 coal miners have died in Pike River disaster. Second explosion has ripped through mine near Greymouth on West Coast and workers once thought possibly trapped after first blast now pronounced dead.
The whole of New Zealand is in mourning and thoughts obviously with families of those who lost their lives so tragically underground. Messages of sympathy from all over the world pour in. Announced that there will be a minute's silence before the forthcoming Wales v New Zealand match at The Millennium Stadium in Cardiff, and that the All Blacks will wear white armbands in tribute.
Passed through Greymouth around a week ago, so added poignancy for us. It's a small community where mining provides main source of income and livelihood for many.
It's a sad and sombre day to be in New Zealand. Churches and chapels on both South and North Islands open their doors - it's midweek - for prayer, reflection and quiet contemplation.
Lake Taupo
Make way north to Lake Taupo again (we stayed there on travels down to South Island). Good central stop to base ourselves before moving on to Rotorua. Fine weather and clear visiblity affords us spectacular views of the volcanic peaks of the Tongarino National Park - particularly Mt Ngaurahe (Mt Hood in Lord of the Rings). Head for coffee and free wi-fi at bungy centre and speak to couple around our ages who have done bungy swing (two go together in swing seat rather than a jump) over gorge. Good on them too. Even that looks incredibly hairy. Lots of youngsters going the whole hog and doing full jump. Enjoy watching while safely sipping our coffees. What cowards, eh!
Call into honey centre to watch bees producing it. Tasting sessions too. Delicious. But we can't take any into Australia (our next destination) so we settle for second best - a honey ice-cream each. Not bad either, but not as good as the one you get on the harbour at lovely Aberaeron. Now that's the real deal.
Rotorua
Here we are at the centre of all things Maori - a city dominated not only by culture, but also mudpools, hot springs and geysers gushing 30 metres into the air. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air here.
Not sure if we would like Rotorua. Had thought it might be too commercial for us, but Te Puia - the main centre to experience these natural wonders - is extremely well done. We wander off away from our fellow tourists (lots of camera-clicking, very excited and extremely talkative Japanese) and are able to explore at our own leisure the steaming geysers. All fascinating stuff, especially the mudpools. Locals refer to them as frog pools - the hot mud (near boiling point at between 90-95C) resemble frogs leaping into the air - a kind of synchronised swimming, but a muddy Frogs' Chorus one.
Feel exhausted - heat of day, plus hot springs, mud, geysers and that all-pervading smell of ''rotten eggs'' has zapped us, so head for nearby Lake Rotorua where a gentle breeze does trick and revives us.
Coromandel
Spending our last few days in New Zealand on the Coromandel Peninsula which justs out into the Bay of Plenty, so named by Captain Cook because of its abundance of green vegetation and plant life. Indeed the area feels so tropical, with lush green ferns, verdant hills, forests - and fruit of all sorts. Huge area for kiwi fruit - we stop at kiwi estate on way, sampling the green and less well-known yellow fruit.
Push on to Waihi on north-east coast and stay at campsite near long stretch of white sand beach. Wild and windy, but warm here. Reminds us of Llangennith. Beach stretches some 12k from tip to tip. Furthest end and around bend is pretty Anzac Bay - a cove sheltered from the wind and where a wedding is taking place as we turn into car park overlooking it. Bride and bridesmaids in place and here comes bridegroom and best man. Not your average church wedding then!
Leaving them to their nuptials (we didn't get an invite, must have been the campervan wot did it) we take a steep, steep (are we there yet?) climb up and over the headland which offer glorious views out over the Bay of Plenty.
Around corner lies Matakana Island and in between some of the strongest currents we've seen anywhere. The sea here seems to be moving in several different directions - and with a rapier-like swiftness. Beautful spot, but dangerous with it. There's no way you could venture off this point however strong a swimmer you were. Terra firma is definitely the place to be.
Hot Water Beach
Yes the water is really hot here (around 60C) - and, yes, it's on the beach. Two hours either side of low tide a natural phenomenon occurs over an area of just some 20 feet on this Coromandel bay where volcanic plates underneath the sand heat up. People come here in their droves to dig holes in the sand and then sit in them as the hot water seeps in. All very bizarre.
Being the inquisitive sort, we fancy trying this (it's the only time in NZ we've seen anything resembling a crowd on a beach - Langland and Caswell it's not), so were hire a spade from a local cafe and start digging and digging. We don't have much success with our ''hot spot''. It's cold. But a bit further along those who seems to know what they are doing are entrenched in their own little ''private'' steaming pools.
One guy, hogging a fair bit of space for himself, has actually brought along a saucepan and is showering himself down with hot water from it. John, a bit miffed that he can't get near the hot bits of water most everyone else seem to have found, dubs him Saucepan Sam, though not to his face of course.
In the end we join a crowd of young gappers and are invited into the ''pool'' they have created. It ain't half hot, mum! Great fun - a very social thing to do.
Hot-Beached out, we walk over to lovely, deserted Surfer's Bay. Not a soul about, just a couple of terns going about their business of nesting as the sun goes down. Way in the distance we can see the hot water enthusiasts still frantically digging for their spots.
''Sam'' is probably still applying saucepans of water over his napper. Don't know whether he had shampoo with him or not. John says he is much happier in the cool of Surfer's Bay, but Chris thinks he's secretly jealous of the saucepan man's hot water success.
Hahe
Spending last two nights on Hahe Beach - and we could not have wished for better spot to finish off our NZ adventure. Isolated, white sand beach, with walk to beautiful Catherdal Cove - aptly named. Walk through tropical rainforest, with stops at little coves called Gemstone Bay and Stingray Bay, lead to huge cathedral-shaped arch in rock and white-sand beach gently lapped by turquoise sea. Spend late afternoon back on Hahe Beach - and swim (his last in NZ waters) order of day for John.
Evening spent in church - well The Church, to be precise. Once indeed a church, it's now a quality restaurant. Top food and wine here. What a great way to finish what has been a magical trip to a spellbinding country.
Tomorrow we are heading back to Auckland, dropping off the campervan (goodbye old bus, it's been fun, fun, fun all the way, but we won't be sorry to see some crisp, white sheets again for a night or three) and boarding a flight to Australia.
So farewell New Zealand - a country that has not only lived up to expectations, but exceeded them. We have yet to meet anyone who has a bad word to say about it. Well we know why now - and you can add our names to the long list of admirers of this awesome land.
One week left in The Land Of The Long White Cloud and we are heading back to Picton to catch the ferry for our return to the North Island. Helen, our Marlborough wine tour guide all of three weeks ago, is playing an acoustic folk set with a number of other musicians - some local, some travelling through - in a little Irish bar called Seamus's. We plan to see her there.
First, though, we call into Nelson on the way. It's a small port city and has been described as ''one of the most liveable cities in New Zealand.'' Can see why. It has the same timber-clad houses as Wellington, many perched high on the hillsides behind. But it is much smaller - a population of around 50,000 - and is the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park.
Home to the very first rugby match in NZ, we visit the park where that slice of history was made. We note that the Kiwis have got rather good at the sport since that memorable date. The botanical gardens housed in the park is also the geographical centre of NZ - literally its very heart.
Long journey ahead to make it in time to Picton so press on, but stop off at pretty spot called Pelorus Bridge, which has a grisly history. Back in mid-1800s a gang of notorious robbers on their way to do a bank job in Nelson murdered some poor soul here in the woods close to a deep river gorge. One of the gang confessed to the crime and lived to tell the tale, while the other three were hanged in Nelson and their bodies lie in the cemetery there. Happy days!
Back in Picton we enjoy a great night at Seamus's - good food, good banter and good music courtesy of Helen and other assembled folk musicians. Great to see her again - she plays a mean fiddle too.
Napier
10am next day we drive campervan onto ferry for our return crossing of Cook Strait. It's a gorgeous sunny day, with little wind this time around. Make for top deck and three-hour journey to Wellington passes pleasantly. Chris doesn't feel like Nanuka of the North this time around. In fact, she relaxes, taking in the rays.
Decide to push on to Napier on the East Coast - and glad we do. It's the art deco capital of the world. Eat your heart out, Miami. Destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1931 (hundreds lost their lives) Napier and its twin city Hastings some 20k away were rebuilt in the classic art deco style of the period.
Napier, situated on beautiful Hawke Bay, has its own art deco trail which you can follow at your leisure taking in the architecture, some of which is also Spanish Mission and reminds us a little of some of the adobe-type buildings of Santa Fe and Taos in New Mexico (wow, that seems an age away now).
A nation in mourning
Wake to hear dreadful news that 29 coal miners have died in Pike River disaster. Second explosion has ripped through mine near Greymouth on West Coast and workers once thought possibly trapped after first blast now pronounced dead.
The whole of New Zealand is in mourning and thoughts obviously with families of those who lost their lives so tragically underground. Messages of sympathy from all over the world pour in. Announced that there will be a minute's silence before the forthcoming Wales v New Zealand match at The Millennium Stadium in Cardiff, and that the All Blacks will wear white armbands in tribute.
Passed through Greymouth around a week ago, so added poignancy for us. It's a small community where mining provides main source of income and livelihood for many.
It's a sad and sombre day to be in New Zealand. Churches and chapels on both South and North Islands open their doors - it's midweek - for prayer, reflection and quiet contemplation.
Lake Taupo
Make way north to Lake Taupo again (we stayed there on travels down to South Island). Good central stop to base ourselves before moving on to Rotorua. Fine weather and clear visiblity affords us spectacular views of the volcanic peaks of the Tongarino National Park - particularly Mt Ngaurahe (Mt Hood in Lord of the Rings). Head for coffee and free wi-fi at bungy centre and speak to couple around our ages who have done bungy swing (two go together in swing seat rather than a jump) over gorge. Good on them too. Even that looks incredibly hairy. Lots of youngsters going the whole hog and doing full jump. Enjoy watching while safely sipping our coffees. What cowards, eh!
Call into honey centre to watch bees producing it. Tasting sessions too. Delicious. But we can't take any into Australia (our next destination) so we settle for second best - a honey ice-cream each. Not bad either, but not as good as the one you get on the harbour at lovely Aberaeron. Now that's the real deal.
Rotorua
Here we are at the centre of all things Maori - a city dominated not only by culture, but also mudpools, hot springs and geysers gushing 30 metres into the air. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air here.
Not sure if we would like Rotorua. Had thought it might be too commercial for us, but Te Puia - the main centre to experience these natural wonders - is extremely well done. We wander off away from our fellow tourists (lots of camera-clicking, very excited and extremely talkative Japanese) and are able to explore at our own leisure the steaming geysers. All fascinating stuff, especially the mudpools. Locals refer to them as frog pools - the hot mud (near boiling point at between 90-95C) resemble frogs leaping into the air - a kind of synchronised swimming, but a muddy Frogs' Chorus one.
Feel exhausted - heat of day, plus hot springs, mud, geysers and that all-pervading smell of ''rotten eggs'' has zapped us, so head for nearby Lake Rotorua where a gentle breeze does trick and revives us.
Coromandel
Spending our last few days in New Zealand on the Coromandel Peninsula which justs out into the Bay of Plenty, so named by Captain Cook because of its abundance of green vegetation and plant life. Indeed the area feels so tropical, with lush green ferns, verdant hills, forests - and fruit of all sorts. Huge area for kiwi fruit - we stop at kiwi estate on way, sampling the green and less well-known yellow fruit.
Push on to Waihi on north-east coast and stay at campsite near long stretch of white sand beach. Wild and windy, but warm here. Reminds us of Llangennith. Beach stretches some 12k from tip to tip. Furthest end and around bend is pretty Anzac Bay - a cove sheltered from the wind and where a wedding is taking place as we turn into car park overlooking it. Bride and bridesmaids in place and here comes bridegroom and best man. Not your average church wedding then!
Leaving them to their nuptials (we didn't get an invite, must have been the campervan wot did it) we take a steep, steep (are we there yet?) climb up and over the headland which offer glorious views out over the Bay of Plenty.
Around corner lies Matakana Island and in between some of the strongest currents we've seen anywhere. The sea here seems to be moving in several different directions - and with a rapier-like swiftness. Beautful spot, but dangerous with it. There's no way you could venture off this point however strong a swimmer you were. Terra firma is definitely the place to be.
Hot Water Beach
Yes the water is really hot here (around 60C) - and, yes, it's on the beach. Two hours either side of low tide a natural phenomenon occurs over an area of just some 20 feet on this Coromandel bay where volcanic plates underneath the sand heat up. People come here in their droves to dig holes in the sand and then sit in them as the hot water seeps in. All very bizarre.
Being the inquisitive sort, we fancy trying this (it's the only time in NZ we've seen anything resembling a crowd on a beach - Langland and Caswell it's not), so were hire a spade from a local cafe and start digging and digging. We don't have much success with our ''hot spot''. It's cold. But a bit further along those who seems to know what they are doing are entrenched in their own little ''private'' steaming pools.
One guy, hogging a fair bit of space for himself, has actually brought along a saucepan and is showering himself down with hot water from it. John, a bit miffed that he can't get near the hot bits of water most everyone else seem to have found, dubs him Saucepan Sam, though not to his face of course.
In the end we join a crowd of young gappers and are invited into the ''pool'' they have created. It ain't half hot, mum! Great fun - a very social thing to do.
Hot-Beached out, we walk over to lovely, deserted Surfer's Bay. Not a soul about, just a couple of terns going about their business of nesting as the sun goes down. Way in the distance we can see the hot water enthusiasts still frantically digging for their spots.
''Sam'' is probably still applying saucepans of water over his napper. Don't know whether he had shampoo with him or not. John says he is much happier in the cool of Surfer's Bay, but Chris thinks he's secretly jealous of the saucepan man's hot water success.
Hahe
Spending last two nights on Hahe Beach - and we could not have wished for better spot to finish off our NZ adventure. Isolated, white sand beach, with walk to beautiful Catherdal Cove - aptly named. Walk through tropical rainforest, with stops at little coves called Gemstone Bay and Stingray Bay, lead to huge cathedral-shaped arch in rock and white-sand beach gently lapped by turquoise sea. Spend late afternoon back on Hahe Beach - and swim (his last in NZ waters) order of day for John.
Evening spent in church - well The Church, to be precise. Once indeed a church, it's now a quality restaurant. Top food and wine here. What a great way to finish what has been a magical trip to a spellbinding country.
Tomorrow we are heading back to Auckland, dropping off the campervan (goodbye old bus, it's been fun, fun, fun all the way, but we won't be sorry to see some crisp, white sheets again for a night or three) and boarding a flight to Australia.
So farewell New Zealand - a country that has not only lived up to expectations, but exceeded them. We have yet to meet anyone who has a bad word to say about it. Well we know why now - and you can add our names to the long list of admirers of this awesome land.
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