Tuesday 28 December 2010
Wednesday 22 December 2010
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from Oz
To everyone following (and hopefully enjoying) our blog here's wishing you a magical Christmas and a happy and healthy 2011. Naturally we'll be missing family & friends - but obviously not the Arctic conditions back in the UK - and will raise a glass or two to you on the big day. Enjoy the fun & festivities.
Love John & Chris xx
Saturday 18 December 2010
Cape Tribulation & Far North Queensland
Cape Tribulation is as far north as we go in Queensland. This is one of the very few places on the planet where tropical rainforest and ocean collide. Lush, dense and verdant vegetation meets the Great Barrier Reef, with just a tiny strand of sand and a few metres of turquoise sea separating them.
It is quite simply a magical place. To get there we must cross the forbidding crocodile-infested muddy brown waters of the Daintree River by a cable-winched car ferry which runs every 15 minutes. It takes just a couple of minutes to cross the river (no croc sightings today), but when you land on the other side you enter another world - an almost primitive, jungle-like one.
It is 34km to the Cape and we continue on our way on a narrow twisty road snaking north, with deep and dark forest either side of us. We cross numerous rickety wooden bridges over rivers, creeks and swamps - the haunt of our croc friends.
The foliage is thick, the heat and humidity intense. The sky feels heavy too and, although we know the sea is close, there are few sightings of it along the way. We feel a little claustrophobic - a sense of being hemmed in by nature at its most powerful.
This is 'I'm A Celebrity, Get Me Out Of Here' country, but we don't intend to eat any tiny creatures of the forest just yet - and nor do we intend getting eaten by the bigger ones out there either.
We start to climb upwards and pull over at the Cape Kimberley Beach lookout - one of the few spots affording a view of the ocean. It looks out towards the mouth of the Daintree River, with the ominously-named Snapper Island offshore and views back out across the Coral Sea south towards Port Douglas and, further south again in the far distance, the Northern Beaches beyond Cairns.
For the first time on our travels we feel a little uneasy and a long way from civilisation. The beauty of this remote, sparsley-populated region is undeniably breath-taking, but its very isolation gives it a palpable edge too.
The nearest town north is Cooktown - 104km away on a coastal dirt-track road known as the Bloomfield Track which only 4WDs can traverse and which often becomes totally impassable even to them after heavy rain. Torrential rain can cut off some sections at a drop of a hat, so our little rental car would not stand the ghost of a chance.
We decide to treat ourselves and book into the Ferntree Rainforest Lodge deep in the heart of the forest - there is little accommodation along the shore - and make our base there for the next couple of nights. We have a nice room and there's a lovely swimming pool and an attractive Balinese-style restaurant alongside.
The next morning we head out to The Cape itself - one of the most gorgeous spots either of us has ever clapped eyes on. Named by Captain James Cook after his ship the Endeavour ran aground on the reef here back in 1770, Cape Tribulation (the great man obviously saw it as a place of trouble and despair, rather than of beauty - well his ship did get holed here) is a lovely yet lonely arc of white-sand, palm-fringed beach backed by mangrove swamps, ferns and eucalyptus trees.
It is a World Heritage listed area - and no wonder. It scores 10 out of 10 on the wow factor scale. We are so lucky. Normally The Wet (tropical and torrential rain) has arrived by now, but we view it on a perfect day.
Spend the evening at the restaurant at Ferntree and meet up with mother and daughter Tracey and Charlotte, who hail from the Swindon area. They ask us if we have spotted the Golden Orb spider nestled in its web near an outdoor table at which we had sat earlier. No, we say, but when they show it to us we feel an overwhelming sense of relief that we decided to opt for a table inside instead. Venomous it may not be, but its size and appearance gives it a menacing aura. Back in our room that night we check bed (pillows, sheets and underneath it), bath, toilet and shower for any creepy-crawlies that may be lurking in or around. What lies beneath? Has paranoia set in? Probably. But we aren't taking any chances. This is a world away to what we are used to, and we are playing it safe. Coast appears clear. Time then for a decent night's sleep - Golden Orbs and pals permitting.
Crocodile spotting on the Daintree
Decide to take boat ride on the Daintree River in the hope of spotting a 'saltie' (a saltwater crocodile which can live in both fresh and salt water, and the world's largest living reptile). Our 'Crocodile Dundee' on the Bruce Belcher Daintree River cruise is boatman Freddie.
With just one other couple from Holland on board our motor boat off we go and it's not long before Freddie spots a female croc on the riverbank. She's around two metres long - males can grow up to an astonishing six metres - and is happily sunning herself among the mangrove trees, quite oblivious to our camera clicking from the safety of our vessel. That's quite close enough, Freddie. We can see fine from here.
We head out into deeper water and a little later catch sight of her again. She has stirred from her slumbers and is snaking gracefully along one of the waterway's many channels. We get right up close now. There's a good view of her head and torso as she drifts along the swollen brown river.
Mission accomplished. We have spotted a croc. We feel as pleased as punch, and also like adventurers on The African Queen.
Port Douglas
Known as Port Dougie this is the smaller equivalent of Cairns. Low-rise development sits on a four-mile golden beach. It's a lively, cosmopolitan seaside town as far removed from Cape Tribulation as it is possible to be. It's all very safe and genteel here, with palm trees fringing the shore and waves lapping the shore.
Cafes, bars and upmarket restaurants make up the main street. Prices pretty steep here too - this is a glam, glitzy kind of place after our 'hideaway' Cape Trib experience, but we manage to slake our thirst and not dig too deep into our pockets at Port Douglas Yacht Club, which also offers great marina views from its large decking area.
Mossman Gorge
A day trip from Port Douglas or Cairns takes you to this jewel of a gorge where the towering Mount Demi lords it over all. It's a tranquil get-away-from-it-all kind of a place, with a fabulous walking trail taking you deep into the heart of the forest. At the foot of the gorge lie some swimming holes, which can be treacherous after heavy rain.
It had rained hard and heavy the night before our visit and the normally crystal-clear pools were a torrent of muddy brown swirling water. Swimming the holes was a definite no no.
However the deeper you went into the forest there were some shallow little creeks and inviting rock pools in which to dip our toes and cool off. That would do us nicely, thank you.
Atherton Tablelands
At the heart of the Tablelands, which lie inland from the coast between Cairns in the north and Innisfall in the south, are the Millaa Millaa Falls, which must rate as among the most scenic in the world (if you saw our Christmas greetings. we are the ugly mugs spoiling the view of it).
It is part of a 16km circuit of waterfalls in the Tableands, a silver sheet of water dropping dramtically into a fern-fringed pool. You can walk behind it or swim in the natural pool at its bottom.
We did neither (hadn't packed our swimmers), so just enjoyed its splendour, as we did that of the nearby Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls, both very different but equally beautiful in their own way.
From there we head over the Tablelands, taking in two volcanic crater lakes Barrine and Eacham. At Barrine we stop at a lakeside cafe/restaurant specialising in Devonshire teas. How very British. Naturally we must try it (sadly no Welsh cakes to be seen) - and delicious too were the scones, clotted cream and jam - very much a case of naughty but nice.
Fortified (well a bit stuffed actually), we carry on to the pretty little village of Yungaburra where Chris, with The Far East in mind, treats herself to some new summer dresses at a quaint little boutique (and lovely you looked in them too, Mrs W).
Shopping done and dusted, we take in a beguiling and bewitching sight - a giant 500-year-old Curtain Fig Tree. It has aerial roots that hang down over it creating a curtain-like effect, akin to a waterfall. It's like something out of a sci-fi, or fantasy movie - weird, but very wonderful and totally majestic.
Trinity Beach and return to Cairns
Our stay in Queensland is coming to an end - next stop Ayers Rock - but we have a few days left. Decide to chill out at Trinity Beach, one of the Northern Beaches - and one of the prettiest in our book.
Manage to find a nice suite at low cost (this Wet season is working well for us). Lovely beach to laze around on with plenty of shade from trees fringing it.
Spend the last two days back where we started in Cairns - at the Floriana guesthouse and the same self-contained flat where we stayed a week earlier. It is like 'going home.' Tomorrow, though, it will be goodbye to the Floriana, Cairns and Queensland and hello to The Rock.
It is quite simply a magical place. To get there we must cross the forbidding crocodile-infested muddy brown waters of the Daintree River by a cable-winched car ferry which runs every 15 minutes. It takes just a couple of minutes to cross the river (no croc sightings today), but when you land on the other side you enter another world - an almost primitive, jungle-like one.
It is 34km to the Cape and we continue on our way on a narrow twisty road snaking north, with deep and dark forest either side of us. We cross numerous rickety wooden bridges over rivers, creeks and swamps - the haunt of our croc friends.
The foliage is thick, the heat and humidity intense. The sky feels heavy too and, although we know the sea is close, there are few sightings of it along the way. We feel a little claustrophobic - a sense of being hemmed in by nature at its most powerful.
This is 'I'm A Celebrity, Get Me Out Of Here' country, but we don't intend to eat any tiny creatures of the forest just yet - and nor do we intend getting eaten by the bigger ones out there either.
We start to climb upwards and pull over at the Cape Kimberley Beach lookout - one of the few spots affording a view of the ocean. It looks out towards the mouth of the Daintree River, with the ominously-named Snapper Island offshore and views back out across the Coral Sea south towards Port Douglas and, further south again in the far distance, the Northern Beaches beyond Cairns.
For the first time on our travels we feel a little uneasy and a long way from civilisation. The beauty of this remote, sparsley-populated region is undeniably breath-taking, but its very isolation gives it a palpable edge too.
The nearest town north is Cooktown - 104km away on a coastal dirt-track road known as the Bloomfield Track which only 4WDs can traverse and which often becomes totally impassable even to them after heavy rain. Torrential rain can cut off some sections at a drop of a hat, so our little rental car would not stand the ghost of a chance.
We decide to treat ourselves and book into the Ferntree Rainforest Lodge deep in the heart of the forest - there is little accommodation along the shore - and make our base there for the next couple of nights. We have a nice room and there's a lovely swimming pool and an attractive Balinese-style restaurant alongside.
The next morning we head out to The Cape itself - one of the most gorgeous spots either of us has ever clapped eyes on. Named by Captain James Cook after his ship the Endeavour ran aground on the reef here back in 1770, Cape Tribulation (the great man obviously saw it as a place of trouble and despair, rather than of beauty - well his ship did get holed here) is a lovely yet lonely arc of white-sand, palm-fringed beach backed by mangrove swamps, ferns and eucalyptus trees.
It is a World Heritage listed area - and no wonder. It scores 10 out of 10 on the wow factor scale. We are so lucky. Normally The Wet (tropical and torrential rain) has arrived by now, but we view it on a perfect day.
Spend the evening at the restaurant at Ferntree and meet up with mother and daughter Tracey and Charlotte, who hail from the Swindon area. They ask us if we have spotted the Golden Orb spider nestled in its web near an outdoor table at which we had sat earlier. No, we say, but when they show it to us we feel an overwhelming sense of relief that we decided to opt for a table inside instead. Venomous it may not be, but its size and appearance gives it a menacing aura. Back in our room that night we check bed (pillows, sheets and underneath it), bath, toilet and shower for any creepy-crawlies that may be lurking in or around. What lies beneath? Has paranoia set in? Probably. But we aren't taking any chances. This is a world away to what we are used to, and we are playing it safe. Coast appears clear. Time then for a decent night's sleep - Golden Orbs and pals permitting.
Crocodile spotting on the Daintree
Decide to take boat ride on the Daintree River in the hope of spotting a 'saltie' (a saltwater crocodile which can live in both fresh and salt water, and the world's largest living reptile). Our 'Crocodile Dundee' on the Bruce Belcher Daintree River cruise is boatman Freddie.
With just one other couple from Holland on board our motor boat off we go and it's not long before Freddie spots a female croc on the riverbank. She's around two metres long - males can grow up to an astonishing six metres - and is happily sunning herself among the mangrove trees, quite oblivious to our camera clicking from the safety of our vessel. That's quite close enough, Freddie. We can see fine from here.
We head out into deeper water and a little later catch sight of her again. She has stirred from her slumbers and is snaking gracefully along one of the waterway's many channels. We get right up close now. There's a good view of her head and torso as she drifts along the swollen brown river.
Mission accomplished. We have spotted a croc. We feel as pleased as punch, and also like adventurers on The African Queen.
Port Douglas
Known as Port Dougie this is the smaller equivalent of Cairns. Low-rise development sits on a four-mile golden beach. It's a lively, cosmopolitan seaside town as far removed from Cape Tribulation as it is possible to be. It's all very safe and genteel here, with palm trees fringing the shore and waves lapping the shore.
Cafes, bars and upmarket restaurants make up the main street. Prices pretty steep here too - this is a glam, glitzy kind of place after our 'hideaway' Cape Trib experience, but we manage to slake our thirst and not dig too deep into our pockets at Port Douglas Yacht Club, which also offers great marina views from its large decking area.
Mossman Gorge
A day trip from Port Douglas or Cairns takes you to this jewel of a gorge where the towering Mount Demi lords it over all. It's a tranquil get-away-from-it-all kind of a place, with a fabulous walking trail taking you deep into the heart of the forest. At the foot of the gorge lie some swimming holes, which can be treacherous after heavy rain.
It had rained hard and heavy the night before our visit and the normally crystal-clear pools were a torrent of muddy brown swirling water. Swimming the holes was a definite no no.
However the deeper you went into the forest there were some shallow little creeks and inviting rock pools in which to dip our toes and cool off. That would do us nicely, thank you.
Atherton Tablelands
At the heart of the Tablelands, which lie inland from the coast between Cairns in the north and Innisfall in the south, are the Millaa Millaa Falls, which must rate as among the most scenic in the world (if you saw our Christmas greetings. we are the ugly mugs spoiling the view of it).
It is part of a 16km circuit of waterfalls in the Tableands, a silver sheet of water dropping dramtically into a fern-fringed pool. You can walk behind it or swim in the natural pool at its bottom.
We did neither (hadn't packed our swimmers), so just enjoyed its splendour, as we did that of the nearby Zillie and Ellinjaa Falls, both very different but equally beautiful in their own way.
From there we head over the Tablelands, taking in two volcanic crater lakes Barrine and Eacham. At Barrine we stop at a lakeside cafe/restaurant specialising in Devonshire teas. How very British. Naturally we must try it (sadly no Welsh cakes to be seen) - and delicious too were the scones, clotted cream and jam - very much a case of naughty but nice.
Fortified (well a bit stuffed actually), we carry on to the pretty little village of Yungaburra where Chris, with The Far East in mind, treats herself to some new summer dresses at a quaint little boutique (and lovely you looked in them too, Mrs W).
Shopping done and dusted, we take in a beguiling and bewitching sight - a giant 500-year-old Curtain Fig Tree. It has aerial roots that hang down over it creating a curtain-like effect, akin to a waterfall. It's like something out of a sci-fi, or fantasy movie - weird, but very wonderful and totally majestic.
Trinity Beach and return to Cairns
Our stay in Queensland is coming to an end - next stop Ayers Rock - but we have a few days left. Decide to chill out at Trinity Beach, one of the Northern Beaches - and one of the prettiest in our book.
Manage to find a nice suite at low cost (this Wet season is working well for us). Lovely beach to laze around on with plenty of shade from trees fringing it.
Spend the last two days back where we started in Cairns - at the Floriana guesthouse and the same self-contained flat where we stayed a week earlier. It is like 'going home.' Tomorrow, though, it will be goodbye to the Floriana, Cairns and Queensland and hello to The Rock.
Wednesday 15 December 2010
Tuesday 14 December 2010
Hello Australia
G'day cobbers. We're having a bonzer time out here in Oz, so ripper in fact that we haven't updated our blog proper for yonks, so apologies for being such larrikins. No worries, though. Haven't gone walkabout on all our mates just yet.
Now that we've eaten our brekky today - and good tucker it was too - we can get down to being fair dinkum blokes again, instead of drongos, and I can tell you what Sheila and me have being doing with ourselves. So hang on to your didgeridoos, you beauts. Here goes...
Cairns
Flew into a very wet & wild Brisbane from Auckland. Quick overnight stop - the weather was that lousy we didn't set foot outside the front door of our hotel - and an internal flight north to tropical Cairns next morning, hugging east coast all the way up. Can see huge swathes of Great Barrier Reef below us.
Heat hits us as we step out of plane. It's 33C - and so humid with it. Doesn't take long to break into a sweat (about five seconds, tops).
Staying at Floriana - a quirky and charming little guesthouse on a quiet part of The Esplanade some 10 minutes walk from the city. It's low season (The Wet they call it, but no rain to speak of yet) so pick up a decent deal on a self-contained flat, with kitchen, balcony, bay window looking out to sea and lovely, comfy bed. As much as we enjoyed our six weeks in campervan in New Zealand to have this amount of space again is heaven.
Take a walk across road to see Cairns beach. Like Swansea Bay it's tidal, but there the similarity ends. There is very little sand here, just mudflats and mangroves. Swimming is a no no - there are signs warning of 'salties' (saltwater crocs). Nasty & 'orrible Salties aside, the sight of thousands of large mud crabs merrily scuttling about is enough to put anyone off venturing out on to it in the first place. Ugh.
However the wildflife the flats attract more than compensates - storks, pelicans and parrots of all colours inhabit the area, while at dusk the sky goes inky black with large bats (four times the size of any we have at home) taking flight from the fruit trees dotted around. Bram Stoker would have had a ball and Dracula fans would love it here.
Another big plus is the 4,800-sq-metre saltwater swimming lagoon where you can enjoy a good soak. It's a top spot to linger for a couple of hours when it gets too sticky.
Like Cairns a lot, so have decided to make base here for a week to explore this far northern part of Queensland - a land of ancient rainforests, gorgeous and remote white-sand beaches and, of course, the most famous reef in the world.
Kuranda Skyrail and Railway
Don our 'tourist' hats (our Tilleys are just the ticket in this tropical heat, to which we are slowly - very slowly - adjusting) for one of the world's longest gondola cablecar rides affording bird's-eye view over rainforest.
We have 'car' to ourselves for 7.5km long trip over forest. Great photo opportunities for sure, but not a great time for camera to pack in! It has jammed and is jiggered for sure.
Bit of a disappointment to say the least, but we get over it, refocus and concentrate on enjoying the view below us - you are almost touching the tops of the tropical trees - and also the one out towards Cairns, and The Coral Sea.
Destination is the sleepy little village of Kuranda, which wakes up only when the first tourists arrive in the morning and then promptly goes back to bed when they depart again on last train at 3.30pm or final cable car at 3.45pm. It's a neat little place to spend a couple of hours.
Highlight for us was The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary - a magical place where you step into an aviary of butterflies all the colours of the rainbow which freely flutter around you as you walk. There are thousands, and you are in the midst of them. John had thought it wouldn't be his scene, but on reflection is so glad his Sheila persuaded him to take this particular 'walk on the wild side.'
Head for station and return trip on Kuranda Scenic railway - great one-and-half-hour train trip back through the mountains and forests and over the Barron Gorge and a mammoth and spectacular high and wide waterfall.
Back in Cairns in time to buy one essential - a new camera before we head out onto Great Barrier Reef the following morning.
Great Barrier Reef
Greeted by a perfect day - blue skies, a calm sea and a camera that works! Mickey, a lovely lady at Floriana, has recommended Seastar - a small family-run business - for our trip out onto The Coral Sea and The Reef. Top choice, Mickey. Immediately impressed by professional, but laid-back and fun crew.
Two stops - Michaelmas Cay and Hastings Reef on The Outer Reef - on all-day trip. Fellow reef adventurers on board are either scuba-diving (some for first time), snorkelling or are just along for the ride.
We have gone for snorkelling option - and have been advised to wear special Lycra 'stinger' suits to protect us from box jellyfish. These marine menaces sport venemous tentacles which can grow up to three metres long - and swimmer fatalities have been recorded.
It's a no-brainer then. Stinger suits on, plus mask, snorkel and flippers (we look like something out of a James Bond movie, though maybe more Jaws than 007), we take the plunge into our Jacques Cousteau underwater world off first Michaelmas Cay.
We snorkel for 90 minutes over 15 to 20-metre drops off reef. Coral bleaching in evidence in parts, but still plenty of colour too - blues, pinks, oranges - and it's Sheila (sure her name was Chris back in Wales) who comes up trumps.
She has gone off on 'organised' tour off Michaelmas Cay beach with lead snorkel guide, while John has headed out to 'do his own thing' off dive boat.
Good call, girl. Chris and her group get to swim alongside giant female turtle of such grace and beauty for around five minutes. Mind-blowing to get so close to such a majestic and magnificent creature of the deep. Other highlights include giant clams and so many species fish. The whole reef is a kaleidoscope of colours.
Meet up with John back on boat for barbie lunch (boy those prawns taste good) and exchange experiences. Next up it's Hasting Reef - a different encounter. This is purely off boat, no cay or beach - and it's up to 30 metres deep in part.
A tired, but ecstatic, Chris sits this one out (she has done brilliantly on her first real big snorkelling foray in 'open water') - deciding on glass-bottom boat option for part two of adventure.
This time John (looking in his stinger outfit not remotely like the dashing James, or even The Lady Loves Milk Tray Man come to that) lucks out, getting a close encounter with a reef shark. They're harmless enough, but they still look pretty mean (it's the eyes wot does it), so he keeps his distance just in case - John that is. Perhaps the shark doesn't fancy his chances either with the Lycra-clad earth-dweller who has come to temporarily inhabit and invade his space.
One hour later after swimming among the turquoise parrot fish, the gorgeous five-striped sergeant major fish and stingrays too it's a weary climb up that ladder at back of boat. John reports to feeling exhilarated but exhausted (well and truly knackered were the actual words). A strong current didn't help either.
Now it's full throttle back to Cairns after a truly memorable day with the Seastar crew - a really great bunch of guys and gals who looked after us well and contributed so much to us experiencing one of the seven wonders of the natural world at first hand.
Lonely Planet reports that one BBC TV programme rates The Great Barrier Reef as second only to the Grand Canyon on a list of 50 Places To See Before You Die. Cor blimey. Been there, done that then - and magic it was too.
Northern Beaches
Quiet day on cards after GBR adventure. Chris heads off to find hair stylist and meets Michelle who hails from Dublin originally. She lives here with her boyfriend now and recommends some good cafes, bars and restaurants in city.
Pick up a hire car - we'll have it for seven days, so plan to head out of Cairns in next couple of days to explore Atherton Tablelands region, Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation where the tropical rainforest quite literally meets the sea ... but more of that later.
This afternoon we drive up a 26km stretch of coastline known as the Northern Beaches. There are six or seven of them which all have 'stinger-free nets' allowing you safe swimming in the sea.
We head out to Ellis Beach, the most remote of them all. It's a gorgeous stretch - a long sheltered bay with virtually no development. There is just a small beach bar across the road and some discreet oceanfront bungalows just feet from the sea.
Just the job - towels and books out, 'swimmers' (they're bathers back home) on and time to enjoy a nice lazy couple of hours busy doing nothing (and we don't get stung either). A result.
Now that we've eaten our brekky today - and good tucker it was too - we can get down to being fair dinkum blokes again, instead of drongos, and I can tell you what Sheila and me have being doing with ourselves. So hang on to your didgeridoos, you beauts. Here goes...
Cairns
Flew into a very wet & wild Brisbane from Auckland. Quick overnight stop - the weather was that lousy we didn't set foot outside the front door of our hotel - and an internal flight north to tropical Cairns next morning, hugging east coast all the way up. Can see huge swathes of Great Barrier Reef below us.
Heat hits us as we step out of plane. It's 33C - and so humid with it. Doesn't take long to break into a sweat (about five seconds, tops).
Staying at Floriana - a quirky and charming little guesthouse on a quiet part of The Esplanade some 10 minutes walk from the city. It's low season (The Wet they call it, but no rain to speak of yet) so pick up a decent deal on a self-contained flat, with kitchen, balcony, bay window looking out to sea and lovely, comfy bed. As much as we enjoyed our six weeks in campervan in New Zealand to have this amount of space again is heaven.
Take a walk across road to see Cairns beach. Like Swansea Bay it's tidal, but there the similarity ends. There is very little sand here, just mudflats and mangroves. Swimming is a no no - there are signs warning of 'salties' (saltwater crocs). Nasty & 'orrible Salties aside, the sight of thousands of large mud crabs merrily scuttling about is enough to put anyone off venturing out on to it in the first place. Ugh.
However the wildflife the flats attract more than compensates - storks, pelicans and parrots of all colours inhabit the area, while at dusk the sky goes inky black with large bats (four times the size of any we have at home) taking flight from the fruit trees dotted around. Bram Stoker would have had a ball and Dracula fans would love it here.
Another big plus is the 4,800-sq-metre saltwater swimming lagoon where you can enjoy a good soak. It's a top spot to linger for a couple of hours when it gets too sticky.
Like Cairns a lot, so have decided to make base here for a week to explore this far northern part of Queensland - a land of ancient rainforests, gorgeous and remote white-sand beaches and, of course, the most famous reef in the world.
Kuranda Skyrail and Railway
Don our 'tourist' hats (our Tilleys are just the ticket in this tropical heat, to which we are slowly - very slowly - adjusting) for one of the world's longest gondola cablecar rides affording bird's-eye view over rainforest.
We have 'car' to ourselves for 7.5km long trip over forest. Great photo opportunities for sure, but not a great time for camera to pack in! It has jammed and is jiggered for sure.
Bit of a disappointment to say the least, but we get over it, refocus and concentrate on enjoying the view below us - you are almost touching the tops of the tropical trees - and also the one out towards Cairns, and The Coral Sea.
Destination is the sleepy little village of Kuranda, which wakes up only when the first tourists arrive in the morning and then promptly goes back to bed when they depart again on last train at 3.30pm or final cable car at 3.45pm. It's a neat little place to spend a couple of hours.
Highlight for us was The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary - a magical place where you step into an aviary of butterflies all the colours of the rainbow which freely flutter around you as you walk. There are thousands, and you are in the midst of them. John had thought it wouldn't be his scene, but on reflection is so glad his Sheila persuaded him to take this particular 'walk on the wild side.'
Head for station and return trip on Kuranda Scenic railway - great one-and-half-hour train trip back through the mountains and forests and over the Barron Gorge and a mammoth and spectacular high and wide waterfall.
Back in Cairns in time to buy one essential - a new camera before we head out onto Great Barrier Reef the following morning.
Great Barrier Reef
Greeted by a perfect day - blue skies, a calm sea and a camera that works! Mickey, a lovely lady at Floriana, has recommended Seastar - a small family-run business - for our trip out onto The Coral Sea and The Reef. Top choice, Mickey. Immediately impressed by professional, but laid-back and fun crew.
Two stops - Michaelmas Cay and Hastings Reef on The Outer Reef - on all-day trip. Fellow reef adventurers on board are either scuba-diving (some for first time), snorkelling or are just along for the ride.
We have gone for snorkelling option - and have been advised to wear special Lycra 'stinger' suits to protect us from box jellyfish. These marine menaces sport venemous tentacles which can grow up to three metres long - and swimmer fatalities have been recorded.
It's a no-brainer then. Stinger suits on, plus mask, snorkel and flippers (we look like something out of a James Bond movie, though maybe more Jaws than 007), we take the plunge into our Jacques Cousteau underwater world off first Michaelmas Cay.
We snorkel for 90 minutes over 15 to 20-metre drops off reef. Coral bleaching in evidence in parts, but still plenty of colour too - blues, pinks, oranges - and it's Sheila (sure her name was Chris back in Wales) who comes up trumps.
She has gone off on 'organised' tour off Michaelmas Cay beach with lead snorkel guide, while John has headed out to 'do his own thing' off dive boat.
Good call, girl. Chris and her group get to swim alongside giant female turtle of such grace and beauty for around five minutes. Mind-blowing to get so close to such a majestic and magnificent creature of the deep. Other highlights include giant clams and so many species fish. The whole reef is a kaleidoscope of colours.
Meet up with John back on boat for barbie lunch (boy those prawns taste good) and exchange experiences. Next up it's Hasting Reef - a different encounter. This is purely off boat, no cay or beach - and it's up to 30 metres deep in part.
A tired, but ecstatic, Chris sits this one out (she has done brilliantly on her first real big snorkelling foray in 'open water') - deciding on glass-bottom boat option for part two of adventure.
This time John (looking in his stinger outfit not remotely like the dashing James, or even The Lady Loves Milk Tray Man come to that) lucks out, getting a close encounter with a reef shark. They're harmless enough, but they still look pretty mean (it's the eyes wot does it), so he keeps his distance just in case - John that is. Perhaps the shark doesn't fancy his chances either with the Lycra-clad earth-dweller who has come to temporarily inhabit and invade his space.
One hour later after swimming among the turquoise parrot fish, the gorgeous five-striped sergeant major fish and stingrays too it's a weary climb up that ladder at back of boat. John reports to feeling exhilarated but exhausted (well and truly knackered were the actual words). A strong current didn't help either.
Now it's full throttle back to Cairns after a truly memorable day with the Seastar crew - a really great bunch of guys and gals who looked after us well and contributed so much to us experiencing one of the seven wonders of the natural world at first hand.
Lonely Planet reports that one BBC TV programme rates The Great Barrier Reef as second only to the Grand Canyon on a list of 50 Places To See Before You Die. Cor blimey. Been there, done that then - and magic it was too.
Northern Beaches
Quiet day on cards after GBR adventure. Chris heads off to find hair stylist and meets Michelle who hails from Dublin originally. She lives here with her boyfriend now and recommends some good cafes, bars and restaurants in city.
Pick up a hire car - we'll have it for seven days, so plan to head out of Cairns in next couple of days to explore Atherton Tablelands region, Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation where the tropical rainforest quite literally meets the sea ... but more of that later.
This afternoon we drive up a 26km stretch of coastline known as the Northern Beaches. There are six or seven of them which all have 'stinger-free nets' allowing you safe swimming in the sea.
We head out to Ellis Beach, the most remote of them all. It's a gorgeous stretch - a long sheltered bay with virtually no development. There is just a small beach bar across the road and some discreet oceanfront bungalows just feet from the sea.
Just the job - towels and books out, 'swimmers' (they're bathers back home) on and time to enjoy a nice lazy couple of hours busy doing nothing (and we don't get stung either). A result.
Monday 6 December 2010
Sunday 5 December 2010
Farewell New Zealand
Return to Picton
One week left in The Land Of The Long White Cloud and we are heading back to Picton to catch the ferry for our return to the North Island. Helen, our Marlborough wine tour guide all of three weeks ago, is playing an acoustic folk set with a number of other musicians - some local, some travelling through - in a little Irish bar called Seamus's. We plan to see her there.
First, though, we call into Nelson on the way. It's a small port city and has been described as ''one of the most liveable cities in New Zealand.'' Can see why. It has the same timber-clad houses as Wellington, many perched high on the hillsides behind. But it is much smaller - a population of around 50,000 - and is the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park.
Home to the very first rugby match in NZ, we visit the park where that slice of history was made. We note that the Kiwis have got rather good at the sport since that memorable date. The botanical gardens housed in the park is also the geographical centre of NZ - literally its very heart.
Long journey ahead to make it in time to Picton so press on, but stop off at pretty spot called Pelorus Bridge, which has a grisly history. Back in mid-1800s a gang of notorious robbers on their way to do a bank job in Nelson murdered some poor soul here in the woods close to a deep river gorge. One of the gang confessed to the crime and lived to tell the tale, while the other three were hanged in Nelson and their bodies lie in the cemetery there. Happy days!
Back in Picton we enjoy a great night at Seamus's - good food, good banter and good music courtesy of Helen and other assembled folk musicians. Great to see her again - she plays a mean fiddle too.
Napier
10am next day we drive campervan onto ferry for our return crossing of Cook Strait. It's a gorgeous sunny day, with little wind this time around. Make for top deck and three-hour journey to Wellington passes pleasantly. Chris doesn't feel like Nanuka of the North this time around. In fact, she relaxes, taking in the rays.
Decide to push on to Napier on the East Coast - and glad we do. It's the art deco capital of the world. Eat your heart out, Miami. Destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1931 (hundreds lost their lives) Napier and its twin city Hastings some 20k away were rebuilt in the classic art deco style of the period.
Napier, situated on beautiful Hawke Bay, has its own art deco trail which you can follow at your leisure taking in the architecture, some of which is also Spanish Mission and reminds us a little of some of the adobe-type buildings of Santa Fe and Taos in New Mexico (wow, that seems an age away now).
A nation in mourning
Wake to hear dreadful news that 29 coal miners have died in Pike River disaster. Second explosion has ripped through mine near Greymouth on West Coast and workers once thought possibly trapped after first blast now pronounced dead.
The whole of New Zealand is in mourning and thoughts obviously with families of those who lost their lives so tragically underground. Messages of sympathy from all over the world pour in. Announced that there will be a minute's silence before the forthcoming Wales v New Zealand match at The Millennium Stadium in Cardiff, and that the All Blacks will wear white armbands in tribute.
Passed through Greymouth around a week ago, so added poignancy for us. It's a small community where mining provides main source of income and livelihood for many.
It's a sad and sombre day to be in New Zealand. Churches and chapels on both South and North Islands open their doors - it's midweek - for prayer, reflection and quiet contemplation.
Lake Taupo
Make way north to Lake Taupo again (we stayed there on travels down to South Island). Good central stop to base ourselves before moving on to Rotorua. Fine weather and clear visiblity affords us spectacular views of the volcanic peaks of the Tongarino National Park - particularly Mt Ngaurahe (Mt Hood in Lord of the Rings). Head for coffee and free wi-fi at bungy centre and speak to couple around our ages who have done bungy swing (two go together in swing seat rather than a jump) over gorge. Good on them too. Even that looks incredibly hairy. Lots of youngsters going the whole hog and doing full jump. Enjoy watching while safely sipping our coffees. What cowards, eh!
Call into honey centre to watch bees producing it. Tasting sessions too. Delicious. But we can't take any into Australia (our next destination) so we settle for second best - a honey ice-cream each. Not bad either, but not as good as the one you get on the harbour at lovely Aberaeron. Now that's the real deal.
Rotorua
Here we are at the centre of all things Maori - a city dominated not only by culture, but also mudpools, hot springs and geysers gushing 30 metres into the air. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air here.
Not sure if we would like Rotorua. Had thought it might be too commercial for us, but Te Puia - the main centre to experience these natural wonders - is extremely well done. We wander off away from our fellow tourists (lots of camera-clicking, very excited and extremely talkative Japanese) and are able to explore at our own leisure the steaming geysers. All fascinating stuff, especially the mudpools. Locals refer to them as frog pools - the hot mud (near boiling point at between 90-95C) resemble frogs leaping into the air - a kind of synchronised swimming, but a muddy Frogs' Chorus one.
Feel exhausted - heat of day, plus hot springs, mud, geysers and that all-pervading smell of ''rotten eggs'' has zapped us, so head for nearby Lake Rotorua where a gentle breeze does trick and revives us.
Coromandel
Spending our last few days in New Zealand on the Coromandel Peninsula which justs out into the Bay of Plenty, so named by Captain Cook because of its abundance of green vegetation and plant life. Indeed the area feels so tropical, with lush green ferns, verdant hills, forests - and fruit of all sorts. Huge area for kiwi fruit - we stop at kiwi estate on way, sampling the green and less well-known yellow fruit.
Push on to Waihi on north-east coast and stay at campsite near long stretch of white sand beach. Wild and windy, but warm here. Reminds us of Llangennith. Beach stretches some 12k from tip to tip. Furthest end and around bend is pretty Anzac Bay - a cove sheltered from the wind and where a wedding is taking place as we turn into car park overlooking it. Bride and bridesmaids in place and here comes bridegroom and best man. Not your average church wedding then!
Leaving them to their nuptials (we didn't get an invite, must have been the campervan wot did it) we take a steep, steep (are we there yet?) climb up and over the headland which offer glorious views out over the Bay of Plenty.
Around corner lies Matakana Island and in between some of the strongest currents we've seen anywhere. The sea here seems to be moving in several different directions - and with a rapier-like swiftness. Beautful spot, but dangerous with it. There's no way you could venture off this point however strong a swimmer you were. Terra firma is definitely the place to be.
Hot Water Beach
Yes the water is really hot here (around 60C) - and, yes, it's on the beach. Two hours either side of low tide a natural phenomenon occurs over an area of just some 20 feet on this Coromandel bay where volcanic plates underneath the sand heat up. People come here in their droves to dig holes in the sand and then sit in them as the hot water seeps in. All very bizarre.
Being the inquisitive sort, we fancy trying this (it's the only time in NZ we've seen anything resembling a crowd on a beach - Langland and Caswell it's not), so were hire a spade from a local cafe and start digging and digging. We don't have much success with our ''hot spot''. It's cold. But a bit further along those who seems to know what they are doing are entrenched in their own little ''private'' steaming pools.
One guy, hogging a fair bit of space for himself, has actually brought along a saucepan and is showering himself down with hot water from it. John, a bit miffed that he can't get near the hot bits of water most everyone else seem to have found, dubs him Saucepan Sam, though not to his face of course.
In the end we join a crowd of young gappers and are invited into the ''pool'' they have created. It ain't half hot, mum! Great fun - a very social thing to do.
Hot-Beached out, we walk over to lovely, deserted Surfer's Bay. Not a soul about, just a couple of terns going about their business of nesting as the sun goes down. Way in the distance we can see the hot water enthusiasts still frantically digging for their spots.
''Sam'' is probably still applying saucepans of water over his napper. Don't know whether he had shampoo with him or not. John says he is much happier in the cool of Surfer's Bay, but Chris thinks he's secretly jealous of the saucepan man's hot water success.
Hahe
Spending last two nights on Hahe Beach - and we could not have wished for better spot to finish off our NZ adventure. Isolated, white sand beach, with walk to beautiful Catherdal Cove - aptly named. Walk through tropical rainforest, with stops at little coves called Gemstone Bay and Stingray Bay, lead to huge cathedral-shaped arch in rock and white-sand beach gently lapped by turquoise sea. Spend late afternoon back on Hahe Beach - and swim (his last in NZ waters) order of day for John.
Evening spent in church - well The Church, to be precise. Once indeed a church, it's now a quality restaurant. Top food and wine here. What a great way to finish what has been a magical trip to a spellbinding country.
Tomorrow we are heading back to Auckland, dropping off the campervan (goodbye old bus, it's been fun, fun, fun all the way, but we won't be sorry to see some crisp, white sheets again for a night or three) and boarding a flight to Australia.
So farewell New Zealand - a country that has not only lived up to expectations, but exceeded them. We have yet to meet anyone who has a bad word to say about it. Well we know why now - and you can add our names to the long list of admirers of this awesome land.
One week left in The Land Of The Long White Cloud and we are heading back to Picton to catch the ferry for our return to the North Island. Helen, our Marlborough wine tour guide all of three weeks ago, is playing an acoustic folk set with a number of other musicians - some local, some travelling through - in a little Irish bar called Seamus's. We plan to see her there.
First, though, we call into Nelson on the way. It's a small port city and has been described as ''one of the most liveable cities in New Zealand.'' Can see why. It has the same timber-clad houses as Wellington, many perched high on the hillsides behind. But it is much smaller - a population of around 50,000 - and is the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park.
Home to the very first rugby match in NZ, we visit the park where that slice of history was made. We note that the Kiwis have got rather good at the sport since that memorable date. The botanical gardens housed in the park is also the geographical centre of NZ - literally its very heart.
Long journey ahead to make it in time to Picton so press on, but stop off at pretty spot called Pelorus Bridge, which has a grisly history. Back in mid-1800s a gang of notorious robbers on their way to do a bank job in Nelson murdered some poor soul here in the woods close to a deep river gorge. One of the gang confessed to the crime and lived to tell the tale, while the other three were hanged in Nelson and their bodies lie in the cemetery there. Happy days!
Back in Picton we enjoy a great night at Seamus's - good food, good banter and good music courtesy of Helen and other assembled folk musicians. Great to see her again - she plays a mean fiddle too.
Napier
10am next day we drive campervan onto ferry for our return crossing of Cook Strait. It's a gorgeous sunny day, with little wind this time around. Make for top deck and three-hour journey to Wellington passes pleasantly. Chris doesn't feel like Nanuka of the North this time around. In fact, she relaxes, taking in the rays.
Decide to push on to Napier on the East Coast - and glad we do. It's the art deco capital of the world. Eat your heart out, Miami. Destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1931 (hundreds lost their lives) Napier and its twin city Hastings some 20k away were rebuilt in the classic art deco style of the period.
Napier, situated on beautiful Hawke Bay, has its own art deco trail which you can follow at your leisure taking in the architecture, some of which is also Spanish Mission and reminds us a little of some of the adobe-type buildings of Santa Fe and Taos in New Mexico (wow, that seems an age away now).
A nation in mourning
Wake to hear dreadful news that 29 coal miners have died in Pike River disaster. Second explosion has ripped through mine near Greymouth on West Coast and workers once thought possibly trapped after first blast now pronounced dead.
The whole of New Zealand is in mourning and thoughts obviously with families of those who lost their lives so tragically underground. Messages of sympathy from all over the world pour in. Announced that there will be a minute's silence before the forthcoming Wales v New Zealand match at The Millennium Stadium in Cardiff, and that the All Blacks will wear white armbands in tribute.
Passed through Greymouth around a week ago, so added poignancy for us. It's a small community where mining provides main source of income and livelihood for many.
It's a sad and sombre day to be in New Zealand. Churches and chapels on both South and North Islands open their doors - it's midweek - for prayer, reflection and quiet contemplation.
Lake Taupo
Make way north to Lake Taupo again (we stayed there on travels down to South Island). Good central stop to base ourselves before moving on to Rotorua. Fine weather and clear visiblity affords us spectacular views of the volcanic peaks of the Tongarino National Park - particularly Mt Ngaurahe (Mt Hood in Lord of the Rings). Head for coffee and free wi-fi at bungy centre and speak to couple around our ages who have done bungy swing (two go together in swing seat rather than a jump) over gorge. Good on them too. Even that looks incredibly hairy. Lots of youngsters going the whole hog and doing full jump. Enjoy watching while safely sipping our coffees. What cowards, eh!
Call into honey centre to watch bees producing it. Tasting sessions too. Delicious. But we can't take any into Australia (our next destination) so we settle for second best - a honey ice-cream each. Not bad either, but not as good as the one you get on the harbour at lovely Aberaeron. Now that's the real deal.
Rotorua
Here we are at the centre of all things Maori - a city dominated not only by culture, but also mudpools, hot springs and geysers gushing 30 metres into the air. The smell of sulphur hangs in the air here.
Not sure if we would like Rotorua. Had thought it might be too commercial for us, but Te Puia - the main centre to experience these natural wonders - is extremely well done. We wander off away from our fellow tourists (lots of camera-clicking, very excited and extremely talkative Japanese) and are able to explore at our own leisure the steaming geysers. All fascinating stuff, especially the mudpools. Locals refer to them as frog pools - the hot mud (near boiling point at between 90-95C) resemble frogs leaping into the air - a kind of synchronised swimming, but a muddy Frogs' Chorus one.
Feel exhausted - heat of day, plus hot springs, mud, geysers and that all-pervading smell of ''rotten eggs'' has zapped us, so head for nearby Lake Rotorua where a gentle breeze does trick and revives us.
Coromandel
Spending our last few days in New Zealand on the Coromandel Peninsula which justs out into the Bay of Plenty, so named by Captain Cook because of its abundance of green vegetation and plant life. Indeed the area feels so tropical, with lush green ferns, verdant hills, forests - and fruit of all sorts. Huge area for kiwi fruit - we stop at kiwi estate on way, sampling the green and less well-known yellow fruit.
Push on to Waihi on north-east coast and stay at campsite near long stretch of white sand beach. Wild and windy, but warm here. Reminds us of Llangennith. Beach stretches some 12k from tip to tip. Furthest end and around bend is pretty Anzac Bay - a cove sheltered from the wind and where a wedding is taking place as we turn into car park overlooking it. Bride and bridesmaids in place and here comes bridegroom and best man. Not your average church wedding then!
Leaving them to their nuptials (we didn't get an invite, must have been the campervan wot did it) we take a steep, steep (are we there yet?) climb up and over the headland which offer glorious views out over the Bay of Plenty.
Around corner lies Matakana Island and in between some of the strongest currents we've seen anywhere. The sea here seems to be moving in several different directions - and with a rapier-like swiftness. Beautful spot, but dangerous with it. There's no way you could venture off this point however strong a swimmer you were. Terra firma is definitely the place to be.
Hot Water Beach
Yes the water is really hot here (around 60C) - and, yes, it's on the beach. Two hours either side of low tide a natural phenomenon occurs over an area of just some 20 feet on this Coromandel bay where volcanic plates underneath the sand heat up. People come here in their droves to dig holes in the sand and then sit in them as the hot water seeps in. All very bizarre.
Being the inquisitive sort, we fancy trying this (it's the only time in NZ we've seen anything resembling a crowd on a beach - Langland and Caswell it's not), so were hire a spade from a local cafe and start digging and digging. We don't have much success with our ''hot spot''. It's cold. But a bit further along those who seems to know what they are doing are entrenched in their own little ''private'' steaming pools.
One guy, hogging a fair bit of space for himself, has actually brought along a saucepan and is showering himself down with hot water from it. John, a bit miffed that he can't get near the hot bits of water most everyone else seem to have found, dubs him Saucepan Sam, though not to his face of course.
In the end we join a crowd of young gappers and are invited into the ''pool'' they have created. It ain't half hot, mum! Great fun - a very social thing to do.
Hot-Beached out, we walk over to lovely, deserted Surfer's Bay. Not a soul about, just a couple of terns going about their business of nesting as the sun goes down. Way in the distance we can see the hot water enthusiasts still frantically digging for their spots.
''Sam'' is probably still applying saucepans of water over his napper. Don't know whether he had shampoo with him or not. John says he is much happier in the cool of Surfer's Bay, but Chris thinks he's secretly jealous of the saucepan man's hot water success.
Hahe
Spending last two nights on Hahe Beach - and we could not have wished for better spot to finish off our NZ adventure. Isolated, white sand beach, with walk to beautiful Catherdal Cove - aptly named. Walk through tropical rainforest, with stops at little coves called Gemstone Bay and Stingray Bay, lead to huge cathedral-shaped arch in rock and white-sand beach gently lapped by turquoise sea. Spend late afternoon back on Hahe Beach - and swim (his last in NZ waters) order of day for John.
Evening spent in church - well The Church, to be precise. Once indeed a church, it's now a quality restaurant. Top food and wine here. What a great way to finish what has been a magical trip to a spellbinding country.
Tomorrow we are heading back to Auckland, dropping off the campervan (goodbye old bus, it's been fun, fun, fun all the way, but we won't be sorry to see some crisp, white sheets again for a night or three) and boarding a flight to Australia.
So farewell New Zealand - a country that has not only lived up to expectations, but exceeded them. We have yet to meet anyone who has a bad word to say about it. Well we know why now - and you can add our names to the long list of admirers of this awesome land.
Monday 29 November 2010
East and North on South Island
Kaikoura
Once a sleepy little whaling outpost Kaikoura is now big on these giants of the ocean for very different reasons. Today, rather than slaughtering the magnificent mammals for their blubber, Kk is the No.1 centre on the South Island for whale-watching.
It's a quite lovely place nestled between the Pacific Ocean on one side and the snow-capped Kaikoura Seaward range on the other - the tallest mountains on the east coast of NZ.
Despite their beauty - the mountains come down to meet the sea here with just a narrow two-lane highway to divide them - visitors flock here instead to try to catch a glimpse of the area's extraordinary marine and birdlife.
Not only is this coastal area rich with sperm whales - blues, humpbacks and orcas are also frequently seen - you can also swim with fur seals and rare Hector dolphins in their own natural habitat. On the birdlife front, the albatross (minus The Ancient Mariner) grabs all the attention.
We've rolled into town to try to catch a glimpse of a whale or two - and the next morning looks promising. The sun is shining and the sea appears calm near shore. But looks are deceptive. A quick visit to the whale-watching centre's booking office confirms that conditions out at sea are pretty rough - three-metre swells are the order of the day and the advice is not to sail if you suffer from sea-sickness.
This is where we split up for the day. Chris decides she'll do her whale-watching from a helicopter, while John is more than happy to take his chance out on the briny. Both trips provide dividends. Chris reports her ''bird's eye view'' heli trip - four on board, including the pilot - well worth doing. She sights couple of sperm whales from the air, seeing the whole body, where even blow-hole is visible.
John gets the chance to see four sperm whales on a heaving ocean (and there are quite a lot of people heaving too - into paper bags). While he couldn't see what Chris did - the whole body of the mighty mammal - he is out on the deck of the catamaran with the whales just a couple of metres away - great gusts of water spurting skywards out of their blow-holes as they come up for air before diving for the depths again.
Two very different - but equally rewarding - trips end a memorable day. Back at campground, John spots girl who took sea trip and had mouth to bag for much of the 180-minutes (God bless). She is looking a whiter shade of pale.
North to Abel Tasman
Leave Kaikoura to head north-west to NZ's smallest national park. Gorgeous stretch of road, reminiscent of California's Highway 1 at Big Sur south of Monterey. On way we stop at a cafe/restaurant called The Store At Kekerengu - and it reminds us so much of one our favourite spots on the Sur - a mystical one-off restaurant/shop called Nepenthe, once the home of movie greats Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth.
The Store has a similarly glorious setting - a huge deck overlooking nothing but the blue vastness of The Pacific - and the same laidback feel as its Californian 'cousin'. Chris orders us both some French toast and a couple of coffees and server Stacey picks up on our Welsh accents immediately. She is herself from Gwent, got married at The Oxwich Bay Hotel on Gower last March and is working her way around the world with her husband. She has landed up at The Store and loves it there. We can see why Stacey.
Abel Tasman
The Abel Tasman National Park is a coastal paradise - 23,000 hectares of forested hills interspersed with stretches of golden sand beaches and crystal clear lagoons. It is only accessible by walking, boat or kayak - and many hikers are dropped off in this pristine wilderness by water taxi, so they can do the 51km of track by foot. It can take between 3-4 days and there are stops along the way in Department of Conservation huts along the way.
Basic instinct tells us we are not really up to this, so we chicken out and 'hole up' instead in a little town outside the park called Motueka. We've decided to make this our base for 4 nights from which we'll take a trip into the park via boat and take a half-day walk along stretch of the coast.
Pathetic really, but it still proves a wise move because we stumble across the sublime little seaside village of Kaiteriteri which has two wonderful beaches of its own, plus a third on its outskirts - Breaker Bay Beach - which we fall in love with instantly.
So lovely is it in fact that we put our Abel Tasman (AT was a Dutch explorer who discovered the area) adventure on hold for a day to chill out at Breaker Bay - lapping up the sunshine and generally lazing around on the beach, swimming and reading (John catching up with Stieg Larsson's The Millennium Trilogy and Chris getting her teeth into The Lovely Bones).
Suitably relaxed, we're up for our Tasman adventure next day. We're collected at campsite by minibus which takes us to Kaiteriteri where we board sea-shuttle. Hour-and-a-half journey across a placid Tasman Sea (didn't know there was such a thing) rewards us with fabulous views of deserted beaches among dense forest and bush - some long stretches of sand, others tiny coves. Along the way are close up encounters with seals, and a couple of shy blue penguins who disappear quickly under the water as we approach.
Skipper Andy drops us at lonely, but lovely, Bark Bay (no coffee here, in fact nothing at all) and says he will pick us up in three hours time at Torrent Bay. ''You will have to wade out to the boat. It's too shallow to come close in to pick you up.'' Thanks Andy!
Pick up the trail from Bark to Torrent, but Andy has neglected to mention one thing - the pencil-thin and rather long suspension bridge that crosses a ravine some 100-ft below. One hour into our journey and with another hour to go (and Andy picking us up at a different location to the one he dropped us at) there is no going back. Talk about the point of no return. We are at it, for sure. Eyes front then, deep breaths and no looking down. Made it. No sweat!
Dodgy bridge aside, it's a tough trek and steep in places, but eventually make it to Torrent Bay with something to spare. Exhausted, we catch 40 winks on the beach before our big 'wade out' to meet up with Andy and boat again.
Exhilarating trip, but we are tired. Can't be asked to cook in campervan tonight, so decide on grabbing takeaway. Find one in Motueka that advertises roast dinners and vegees. (It's wot New Zealanders call vegetables). The lamb shanks, roasties and vegees are delicious and go down a treat with a nice bottle of red.
One more day left in area. It's another lazy one. Sun shining again after overnight rain. Back to our favourite spot - Breaker Bay Beach. And to cap it - another roast dinner (this time beef, plus vegees of course). We'll have to get back to our camping way of life after spoiling ourselves again. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.
Once a sleepy little whaling outpost Kaikoura is now big on these giants of the ocean for very different reasons. Today, rather than slaughtering the magnificent mammals for their blubber, Kk is the No.1 centre on the South Island for whale-watching.
It's a quite lovely place nestled between the Pacific Ocean on one side and the snow-capped Kaikoura Seaward range on the other - the tallest mountains on the east coast of NZ.
Despite their beauty - the mountains come down to meet the sea here with just a narrow two-lane highway to divide them - visitors flock here instead to try to catch a glimpse of the area's extraordinary marine and birdlife.
Not only is this coastal area rich with sperm whales - blues, humpbacks and orcas are also frequently seen - you can also swim with fur seals and rare Hector dolphins in their own natural habitat. On the birdlife front, the albatross (minus The Ancient Mariner) grabs all the attention.
We've rolled into town to try to catch a glimpse of a whale or two - and the next morning looks promising. The sun is shining and the sea appears calm near shore. But looks are deceptive. A quick visit to the whale-watching centre's booking office confirms that conditions out at sea are pretty rough - three-metre swells are the order of the day and the advice is not to sail if you suffer from sea-sickness.
This is where we split up for the day. Chris decides she'll do her whale-watching from a helicopter, while John is more than happy to take his chance out on the briny. Both trips provide dividends. Chris reports her ''bird's eye view'' heli trip - four on board, including the pilot - well worth doing. She sights couple of sperm whales from the air, seeing the whole body, where even blow-hole is visible.
John gets the chance to see four sperm whales on a heaving ocean (and there are quite a lot of people heaving too - into paper bags). While he couldn't see what Chris did - the whole body of the mighty mammal - he is out on the deck of the catamaran with the whales just a couple of metres away - great gusts of water spurting skywards out of their blow-holes as they come up for air before diving for the depths again.
Two very different - but equally rewarding - trips end a memorable day. Back at campground, John spots girl who took sea trip and had mouth to bag for much of the 180-minutes (God bless). She is looking a whiter shade of pale.
North to Abel Tasman
Leave Kaikoura to head north-west to NZ's smallest national park. Gorgeous stretch of road, reminiscent of California's Highway 1 at Big Sur south of Monterey. On way we stop at a cafe/restaurant called The Store At Kekerengu - and it reminds us so much of one our favourite spots on the Sur - a mystical one-off restaurant/shop called Nepenthe, once the home of movie greats Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth.
The Store has a similarly glorious setting - a huge deck overlooking nothing but the blue vastness of The Pacific - and the same laidback feel as its Californian 'cousin'. Chris orders us both some French toast and a couple of coffees and server Stacey picks up on our Welsh accents immediately. She is herself from Gwent, got married at The Oxwich Bay Hotel on Gower last March and is working her way around the world with her husband. She has landed up at The Store and loves it there. We can see why Stacey.
Abel Tasman
The Abel Tasman National Park is a coastal paradise - 23,000 hectares of forested hills interspersed with stretches of golden sand beaches and crystal clear lagoons. It is only accessible by walking, boat or kayak - and many hikers are dropped off in this pristine wilderness by water taxi, so they can do the 51km of track by foot. It can take between 3-4 days and there are stops along the way in Department of Conservation huts along the way.
Basic instinct tells us we are not really up to this, so we chicken out and 'hole up' instead in a little town outside the park called Motueka. We've decided to make this our base for 4 nights from which we'll take a trip into the park via boat and take a half-day walk along stretch of the coast.
Pathetic really, but it still proves a wise move because we stumble across the sublime little seaside village of Kaiteriteri which has two wonderful beaches of its own, plus a third on its outskirts - Breaker Bay Beach - which we fall in love with instantly.
So lovely is it in fact that we put our Abel Tasman (AT was a Dutch explorer who discovered the area) adventure on hold for a day to chill out at Breaker Bay - lapping up the sunshine and generally lazing around on the beach, swimming and reading (John catching up with Stieg Larsson's The Millennium Trilogy and Chris getting her teeth into The Lovely Bones).
Suitably relaxed, we're up for our Tasman adventure next day. We're collected at campsite by minibus which takes us to Kaiteriteri where we board sea-shuttle. Hour-and-a-half journey across a placid Tasman Sea (didn't know there was such a thing) rewards us with fabulous views of deserted beaches among dense forest and bush - some long stretches of sand, others tiny coves. Along the way are close up encounters with seals, and a couple of shy blue penguins who disappear quickly under the water as we approach.
Skipper Andy drops us at lonely, but lovely, Bark Bay (no coffee here, in fact nothing at all) and says he will pick us up in three hours time at Torrent Bay. ''You will have to wade out to the boat. It's too shallow to come close in to pick you up.'' Thanks Andy!
Pick up the trail from Bark to Torrent, but Andy has neglected to mention one thing - the pencil-thin and rather long suspension bridge that crosses a ravine some 100-ft below. One hour into our journey and with another hour to go (and Andy picking us up at a different location to the one he dropped us at) there is no going back. Talk about the point of no return. We are at it, for sure. Eyes front then, deep breaths and no looking down. Made it. No sweat!
Dodgy bridge aside, it's a tough trek and steep in places, but eventually make it to Torrent Bay with something to spare. Exhausted, we catch 40 winks on the beach before our big 'wade out' to meet up with Andy and boat again.
Exhilarating trip, but we are tired. Can't be asked to cook in campervan tonight, so decide on grabbing takeaway. Find one in Motueka that advertises roast dinners and vegees. (It's wot New Zealanders call vegetables). The lamb shanks, roasties and vegees are delicious and go down a treat with a nice bottle of red.
One more day left in area. It's another lazy one. Sun shining again after overnight rain. Back to our favourite spot - Breaker Bay Beach. And to cap it - another roast dinner (this time beef, plus vegees of course). We'll have to get back to our camping way of life after spoiling ourselves again. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.
Wednesday 24 November 2010
Tuesday 23 November 2010
West Coast on South Island
Te Anau to Wanaka
Who ate all the pies? We are going to. New Zealand is big on pies, so we decide before we leave Te Anau to buy a couple and have them for dinner. Steak and mushroom for Chris, venison for John. See a shop called 'Miles Better Pies' and decide that's the one for us.
Turning north again and face long drive to Wanaka - a sort of mini Queenstown set on lake. On our way we pass through and stop at old gold mining town of Arrowtown. It's a quaint little place which sprang up in the mid-1800s.
You can still pan for gold in the Arrow River today, but we gave prospecting a miss to check out the remains of an old Chinese settlement instead. The Chinese came over during the gold rush, but led the harshest of lives in tiny huts in extreme conditions and were subject to both exploitation and racism. Tough doesn't even begin to describe how life must have been. The huts they existed in were basically no more than one room - and they would house a family. How they survived the most bitter of winters is hard to imagine.
Arrive in Wanaka after taking scenic mountain route late afternoon with sun shining. A multitude of small sailing boats are out on the lake, with the snow-capped peaks of Mt Aspiring National Park mirrored in it. Gorgeous spot to watch the sun turning red over an early evening drink.
Oh, in case you were wondering, the pies prove indeed "miles better'' than any we have eaten before. Delicious. Who ate all the pies? John & Chris did.
Wanaka to Jackson Bay
Get on the road for 8.30am (that's an early start for us late camping birds). Drive through incredibly beautiful Haast Pass with two deep blue lakes on either side, the road twisting upwards through dense rainforests and over single-track bridges (first to bridge has right of way, so can get a bit hairy) with sheer drops on either side. Eyes front, driver and no looking down! No worries. Who wants to stare into the abyss! Couple of stunning waterfalls on the way - Fantail and Thunder Creek - before reaching Gates of Haast at the bottom of the valley. Lovely spot, but dreaded sandflies are biting again. As we get closer to coast cross more and more huge riverbeds, which roar with ice blue snow and ice melt in the NZ winter. It's late spring turning summer here now, so the rivers aren't running wild now but they must be some sight when they are.
Hit the coast at last with the rain fair pelting down now - West Coast of NZ just like west coast of Ireland or Wales. When it's wet it's wet, wet, and wet. Take Tasman Sea road through ancient and eerie rainforest to Jackson Bay which has supposedly great views of Southern Alps. Rain so heavy now and mist is hanging, so assume mountains are looming over us somewhere! Jackson Bay end of road - literally.
It's an isolated fishing hamlet, with one eating place The Craypot - a little caravan specialising in seafood. We have 'whitebait sandwich' which turns out to be a real disappointment (there has hardly been one on our travels). The 'sandwich' turns out be an omlette, but it's a case of find the whitebait! It's just eggy - and the waitress doesn't serve up a smile either, which is unusual in super friendly NZ. At least it's dry in Craypot. Head up to Fox Glacier, where we park up for night.
Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers
Glacier exploring day on agenda. First to the Fox (No Fox's Glacier mints as far as we can make out). Take a walk to foot of glacier, which surges dramatically down valley. Despite having receded over the centuries, it's still an impressive & imposing sight, even more so from a distance where we can now see the upper glacier poking through the clouds. That was hidden to us when we were up close & personal. Mt Cook and Mt Tasman are towering behind, but low cloud prevents us seeing peaks.
Head for nearby Lake Matheson. Hour's walk around lake in which mountains are often reflected in water. Not our lucky day on that front, but sun decides to put its hat on and we get a stunning view of Fox from nearby viewpoint. Great spot for a picnic - and that's what we do in alpine-type meadow.
Franz Josef is some 23km away. Drive there and park campervan in rainforest site for night. Lots of rain, plenty of forest, so no disappointment on that front. Lots of forest noises too! Rain takes a breather for walk to Franz, which is marginally the more impressive of the two glaciers. It appears narrower than Fox, but longer. A 20-minute walk to a spot called Sentinel Rock gives us cracking view of this ice-blue wonder. Can't get as near to it as Fox (both glacier faces are roped off at certain point because of the very real danger of river swells and ice falls), but it still offers real wow factor. Just an incredible world really, particularly as these two giant fields of ice are so close to the sea.
Hanmer Springs
Had wanted to head right up West Coast - drive is a corker in good weather apparently. However, wake to sound of pouring rain and leaden skies, with mist hanging low. Ocean views will be few and far between on such a day. In NZ if the weather is bad in the west it's often invariably good on the east, so we decide to cut our losses and make for Kaikoura which we had wanted to spend some time in anyway, having briefly passed through it before on our way to Christchurch. Decide to stop off and stay night in little village called Hanmer Springs which is South Island's main thermal resort.
Arrive early enough to be able to spend time having a good soak in assortment of mineral and freshwater pools ranging in temps from 35C to 41C. Just the ticket for aching bodies after long drive. Very soothing, though not everyone is impressed. Little boy joins us in one rather eggy-smelling sulphur pool. Turning up his nose, he reckons that someone has farted. It's ''very farty'' in here is the eight-year-old's analysis. Don't look at us, pal! It's the water, honestly.
Jet-boating on River Waiau
Refreshed after our hot springs experience we are Kaikoura-bound, but call in on way to Thrillseekers Adventure who advertise range of sports including kayaking, white-water rafting, jet-boating and bungy jumping. We drop by hoping to see someone take that 'leap of faith.' Instead John goes jet-boating.
As we arrive boat just to go out - and there is one place left right in the front. Chris not too bothered, which is just as well because John is off before she can turn around and has landed himself a primo spot for trip up wild Waiau, jetting through narrow gorges, water rapids and shallows (from 40ft to just 4 inches of water at some points) at breathtaking high speed. Lots of 360% spins along the way make for a top ride.
Family of four in boat - young couple, with little boy and girl - sitting alongside John. After getting back on dry land mum and dad decide to do bungy jump from bridge overlooking gorge. How cool is that? We look on and can only admire their courage. Mum goes first watched by dad and kids and then dad does his swallow dive into canyon.
Those young kids are going to grow up being extreme sports adventurers themselves for sure. That's enough excitement for one day. Kaikoura here we come and, hopefully, some whale-watching out on the Pacific.
Who ate all the pies? We are going to. New Zealand is big on pies, so we decide before we leave Te Anau to buy a couple and have them for dinner. Steak and mushroom for Chris, venison for John. See a shop called 'Miles Better Pies' and decide that's the one for us.
Turning north again and face long drive to Wanaka - a sort of mini Queenstown set on lake. On our way we pass through and stop at old gold mining town of Arrowtown. It's a quaint little place which sprang up in the mid-1800s.
You can still pan for gold in the Arrow River today, but we gave prospecting a miss to check out the remains of an old Chinese settlement instead. The Chinese came over during the gold rush, but led the harshest of lives in tiny huts in extreme conditions and were subject to both exploitation and racism. Tough doesn't even begin to describe how life must have been. The huts they existed in were basically no more than one room - and they would house a family. How they survived the most bitter of winters is hard to imagine.
Arrive in Wanaka after taking scenic mountain route late afternoon with sun shining. A multitude of small sailing boats are out on the lake, with the snow-capped peaks of Mt Aspiring National Park mirrored in it. Gorgeous spot to watch the sun turning red over an early evening drink.
Oh, in case you were wondering, the pies prove indeed "miles better'' than any we have eaten before. Delicious. Who ate all the pies? John & Chris did.
Wanaka to Jackson Bay
Get on the road for 8.30am (that's an early start for us late camping birds). Drive through incredibly beautiful Haast Pass with two deep blue lakes on either side, the road twisting upwards through dense rainforests and over single-track bridges (first to bridge has right of way, so can get a bit hairy) with sheer drops on either side. Eyes front, driver and no looking down! No worries. Who wants to stare into the abyss! Couple of stunning waterfalls on the way - Fantail and Thunder Creek - before reaching Gates of Haast at the bottom of the valley. Lovely spot, but dreaded sandflies are biting again. As we get closer to coast cross more and more huge riverbeds, which roar with ice blue snow and ice melt in the NZ winter. It's late spring turning summer here now, so the rivers aren't running wild now but they must be some sight when they are.
Hit the coast at last with the rain fair pelting down now - West Coast of NZ just like west coast of Ireland or Wales. When it's wet it's wet, wet, and wet. Take Tasman Sea road through ancient and eerie rainforest to Jackson Bay which has supposedly great views of Southern Alps. Rain so heavy now and mist is hanging, so assume mountains are looming over us somewhere! Jackson Bay end of road - literally.
It's an isolated fishing hamlet, with one eating place The Craypot - a little caravan specialising in seafood. We have 'whitebait sandwich' which turns out to be a real disappointment (there has hardly been one on our travels). The 'sandwich' turns out be an omlette, but it's a case of find the whitebait! It's just eggy - and the waitress doesn't serve up a smile either, which is unusual in super friendly NZ. At least it's dry in Craypot. Head up to Fox Glacier, where we park up for night.
Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers
Glacier exploring day on agenda. First to the Fox (No Fox's Glacier mints as far as we can make out). Take a walk to foot of glacier, which surges dramatically down valley. Despite having receded over the centuries, it's still an impressive & imposing sight, even more so from a distance where we can now see the upper glacier poking through the clouds. That was hidden to us when we were up close & personal. Mt Cook and Mt Tasman are towering behind, but low cloud prevents us seeing peaks.
Head for nearby Lake Matheson. Hour's walk around lake in which mountains are often reflected in water. Not our lucky day on that front, but sun decides to put its hat on and we get a stunning view of Fox from nearby viewpoint. Great spot for a picnic - and that's what we do in alpine-type meadow.
Franz Josef is some 23km away. Drive there and park campervan in rainforest site for night. Lots of rain, plenty of forest, so no disappointment on that front. Lots of forest noises too! Rain takes a breather for walk to Franz, which is marginally the more impressive of the two glaciers. It appears narrower than Fox, but longer. A 20-minute walk to a spot called Sentinel Rock gives us cracking view of this ice-blue wonder. Can't get as near to it as Fox (both glacier faces are roped off at certain point because of the very real danger of river swells and ice falls), but it still offers real wow factor. Just an incredible world really, particularly as these two giant fields of ice are so close to the sea.
Hanmer Springs
Had wanted to head right up West Coast - drive is a corker in good weather apparently. However, wake to sound of pouring rain and leaden skies, with mist hanging low. Ocean views will be few and far between on such a day. In NZ if the weather is bad in the west it's often invariably good on the east, so we decide to cut our losses and make for Kaikoura which we had wanted to spend some time in anyway, having briefly passed through it before on our way to Christchurch. Decide to stop off and stay night in little village called Hanmer Springs which is South Island's main thermal resort.
Arrive early enough to be able to spend time having a good soak in assortment of mineral and freshwater pools ranging in temps from 35C to 41C. Just the ticket for aching bodies after long drive. Very soothing, though not everyone is impressed. Little boy joins us in one rather eggy-smelling sulphur pool. Turning up his nose, he reckons that someone has farted. It's ''very farty'' in here is the eight-year-old's analysis. Don't look at us, pal! It's the water, honestly.
Jet-boating on River Waiau
Refreshed after our hot springs experience we are Kaikoura-bound, but call in on way to Thrillseekers Adventure who advertise range of sports including kayaking, white-water rafting, jet-boating and bungy jumping. We drop by hoping to see someone take that 'leap of faith.' Instead John goes jet-boating.
As we arrive boat just to go out - and there is one place left right in the front. Chris not too bothered, which is just as well because John is off before she can turn around and has landed himself a primo spot for trip up wild Waiau, jetting through narrow gorges, water rapids and shallows (from 40ft to just 4 inches of water at some points) at breathtaking high speed. Lots of 360% spins along the way make for a top ride.
Family of four in boat - young couple, with little boy and girl - sitting alongside John. After getting back on dry land mum and dad decide to do bungy jump from bridge overlooking gorge. How cool is that? We look on and can only admire their courage. Mum goes first watched by dad and kids and then dad does his swallow dive into canyon.
Those young kids are going to grow up being extreme sports adventurers themselves for sure. That's enough excitement for one day. Kaikoura here we come and, hopefully, some whale-watching out on the Pacific.
Tuesday 16 November 2010
Heading south on South Island
Early start out of a very wet Christchurch. Rugby was enjoyable experience - but nothing compared to news that Swans had just trounced the old enemy (some team called Cardiff) 1-0. Magic. Onwards and southwards then. Planning to drop into Queenstown - adventure capital of NZ, possibly the world - and then onto Fiordland to take in the wonders of Milford Sound. It's a long haul and fellow camper has suggested we stop over at Lake Tekapo, which he and his family enjoyed. Had intended to head down coast and across, but take his advice - and are glad we did.
Lake Tekapo
Nice one, fellow camper. What a great shout. Park up campervan after a good day's driving on edge of turquoise lake with views out to snow-capped mountains making up part of the Southern Alps range. A tad tired after long drive we wander along the lake passing by a pretty church The Church of The Good Shepherd, so named in honour of the area's pioneer sheep farmers. Couples come from all parts of the globe to marry here. No wonder, the lakeside setting is hugely romantic.
Night closes in and the stars here are remarkable. It is said to be the best place for star-gazing in entire country because of its clear skies - and who are we to argue? Twinkle twinkle little star(s) and big ones too. The quite magnificent Southern Cross dominates the darkest of skies.
Early start next day for an hour long walk to the south summit of Mt John. It's a rough path up (we are no Edmund Hillarys after all), but nevertheless an arduous and steep trek. Lots of stops along the way to catch breath. Rewarded with stupendous 360% views of mountains, including the iconic Mt Cook, and shimmering Lake Tekapo below. Next summit along houses mountain-top Astro Cafe. We head across. Coffee and cake has never tasted this good. Sit outside 'caf' on glorious day with scenery to match. Refreshed, 45-minute descent back to 'base camp' seems piece of cake after ascent! Feel pleased with our morning's exercise, but it's time to move on.
Mt Cook
Drive down from Lake Tekapo to another lake, which, impossibly as it seems, is even more turquoise. Lake Pukaki sits some 45k south-west of Tekapo and offers a picture-postcard view of the near 12,000-ft high Mt Cook - an awe-inspiring sight. We have been blessed with perfect weather again - and this incredible peak, permanently covered in snow, and soaring into a deep blue cloudless sky is hard to move on from. We have found a quiet spot on the lake just to soak up the sun and the quite sublime scenery.
Eventually drag ourselves from our Cook stupour and head further south through contrasting country towards Queenstown. Pass through a tiny town enchantingly called Twizel before long haul taking in long dry valleys, lush verdant farmland before descedning into the Kawarau Gorge through which runs a raging river. Stop off at Roaring Meg - a cauldron of water - for 'photocall' and Chris gets a couple of bites from some very ravenous sandflies. These are a pain in the a--. (though fortunately we have bites only in ankles and knees to date!)
Queenstown
Skipping the driving for a day. Decide to treat ourselves to nice breakfast of fruit (Chris, of course) and the rather (okay much) more fattening French toast and bacon (no prizes for guessing). Spend the day exploring area. It's the South Island's top tourist town, but there is no denying its beauty. Queenstown, founded by a settler from Haverfordwest, is set on Lake Wakatipu and surrounded by a stunning range of mountains called The Remarkables, which they are.
Town has gorgeous park coming down to meet water. Enjoy watching youngsters playing frisbee golf there. Hundreds of young backpackers & students on lakeshore sunbathing when they are not hurling themselves off river bridges (bungy jumping), tearing down rivers in jet-boats, white-water rafting, canyoning, sky-diving or (later at night) drinking bars dry.
John calls up friend and former work Evening Post work colleague Chris Parvin and they arrange to meet up. Chris, who has family in Mumbles, has been in NZ for 17 years, but had a couple of stints at the Post on his return to God's Country - the last around 10 years ago.
Great to see Chris. He's as chirpy and chipper as ever and in seriously top form. He and wife Alison and children are quite obviously loving the Kiwi lifestyle. Spend a super few hours over a couple of 'sundowners' catching up with news and local (Swansea) gossip as men do (and they say women can talk). Really glad we were able to catch up with him at such short notice - and it was (sorry Chris & Alison). We'll be more organised next time we pass through Q, promise!
Fiordland & Milford Sound
Base ourselves in quiet little Te Anau to explore wilderness area of Fiordland. It's a peaceful spot, very different to vibrant and action-packed Queenstown (which incidentally we loved). Day appears to take longer to turn to evening here in TA. Very light at 9pm, but those blasted sandflies are still biting. John's ankles look like he is suffering from bout of measles!
It's a torturous and twisting route to Milford Sound, so next day we decide on the advice of others to take coach trip before catching boat out into Sound.
Another good tip. Te Anau to Milford road is decidely tricky - glad our driver Alex knows his way around. Stunning 120k two-and-a-half-hour ride takes you into heart of wild and wonderful country where ice and snow collide with rainforest. This is an area of towering cascades and massive waterfalls and where avalanches have wreaked untold damage.
Our day is grey and wet (which is actually perfect. The rainier the better, the waterfalls are fuller, and the Sound itself more atmospheric). Majestic country. John glad he is not driving, so he can take scenery in. Coach is top-notch, with clear glass windows in roof too, so you can look up and view above as well as to the side. Innovative idea - and it works well.
Highlights of drive include Mirror Lakes (lakes reflect mountans across valley), Homer Tunnel (a dark and forbidding 1200m long road tunnel dripping with ice-melt) and the awesome forest-clad Cleddau Valley (the Welsh influence is everywhere here).
Our first sight of Milford Sound astonishes us. Massive Mitre Peak is trying to break through the cloud and mist as we board the Milford Mariner for a three-hour nature cruise. It's stagerring, with sheer cliffs and forests coming down to meet the deep, dark blue waters of the Sound. We seem to be having four seasons in one day - rain, cold, sun, warmth, snow and ice. There are waterfalls everywhere we look - one is three-and-a-half times the height of Niagra Falls, but doesn't seem it as it is dwarfed by the vastness of the cliffs surrounding it.
The Milford Mariner - a sail vessel - takes us deep into the Sound and then out into the Tasman Sea which, while calm today, still offers up a two-metre swell - enough to keep you clinging tightly on to the deck rail.
Lots of fur seals to see and a couple of penguins too - a real highlight. On way back up Sound we stop near waterfall to feel power of spray. Astonishing. Nature at its rawest. The whole Milford experience totally spellbining, making one feel like an insignificant dot on Planet Earth.
Time to come back down to earth - and reflect on a quite magnificent day out over a fish supper from a roadside van. Localy caught blue cod, mussels & squid, plus a healthy (perhaps unhealthy) portion of chips hit the spot. Time to hit the snooze buttons.
Lake Tekapo
Nice one, fellow camper. What a great shout. Park up campervan after a good day's driving on edge of turquoise lake with views out to snow-capped mountains making up part of the Southern Alps range. A tad tired after long drive we wander along the lake passing by a pretty church The Church of The Good Shepherd, so named in honour of the area's pioneer sheep farmers. Couples come from all parts of the globe to marry here. No wonder, the lakeside setting is hugely romantic.
Night closes in and the stars here are remarkable. It is said to be the best place for star-gazing in entire country because of its clear skies - and who are we to argue? Twinkle twinkle little star(s) and big ones too. The quite magnificent Southern Cross dominates the darkest of skies.
Early start next day for an hour long walk to the south summit of Mt John. It's a rough path up (we are no Edmund Hillarys after all), but nevertheless an arduous and steep trek. Lots of stops along the way to catch breath. Rewarded with stupendous 360% views of mountains, including the iconic Mt Cook, and shimmering Lake Tekapo below. Next summit along houses mountain-top Astro Cafe. We head across. Coffee and cake has never tasted this good. Sit outside 'caf' on glorious day with scenery to match. Refreshed, 45-minute descent back to 'base camp' seems piece of cake after ascent! Feel pleased with our morning's exercise, but it's time to move on.
Mt Cook
Drive down from Lake Tekapo to another lake, which, impossibly as it seems, is even more turquoise. Lake Pukaki sits some 45k south-west of Tekapo and offers a picture-postcard view of the near 12,000-ft high Mt Cook - an awe-inspiring sight. We have been blessed with perfect weather again - and this incredible peak, permanently covered in snow, and soaring into a deep blue cloudless sky is hard to move on from. We have found a quiet spot on the lake just to soak up the sun and the quite sublime scenery.
Eventually drag ourselves from our Cook stupour and head further south through contrasting country towards Queenstown. Pass through a tiny town enchantingly called Twizel before long haul taking in long dry valleys, lush verdant farmland before descedning into the Kawarau Gorge through which runs a raging river. Stop off at Roaring Meg - a cauldron of water - for 'photocall' and Chris gets a couple of bites from some very ravenous sandflies. These are a pain in the a--. (though fortunately we have bites only in ankles and knees to date!)
Queenstown
Skipping the driving for a day. Decide to treat ourselves to nice breakfast of fruit (Chris, of course) and the rather (okay much) more fattening French toast and bacon (no prizes for guessing). Spend the day exploring area. It's the South Island's top tourist town, but there is no denying its beauty. Queenstown, founded by a settler from Haverfordwest, is set on Lake Wakatipu and surrounded by a stunning range of mountains called The Remarkables, which they are.
Town has gorgeous park coming down to meet water. Enjoy watching youngsters playing frisbee golf there. Hundreds of young backpackers & students on lakeshore sunbathing when they are not hurling themselves off river bridges (bungy jumping), tearing down rivers in jet-boats, white-water rafting, canyoning, sky-diving or (later at night) drinking bars dry.
John calls up friend and former work Evening Post work colleague Chris Parvin and they arrange to meet up. Chris, who has family in Mumbles, has been in NZ for 17 years, but had a couple of stints at the Post on his return to God's Country - the last around 10 years ago.
Great to see Chris. He's as chirpy and chipper as ever and in seriously top form. He and wife Alison and children are quite obviously loving the Kiwi lifestyle. Spend a super few hours over a couple of 'sundowners' catching up with news and local (Swansea) gossip as men do (and they say women can talk). Really glad we were able to catch up with him at such short notice - and it was (sorry Chris & Alison). We'll be more organised next time we pass through Q, promise!
Fiordland & Milford Sound
Base ourselves in quiet little Te Anau to explore wilderness area of Fiordland. It's a peaceful spot, very different to vibrant and action-packed Queenstown (which incidentally we loved). Day appears to take longer to turn to evening here in TA. Very light at 9pm, but those blasted sandflies are still biting. John's ankles look like he is suffering from bout of measles!
It's a torturous and twisting route to Milford Sound, so next day we decide on the advice of others to take coach trip before catching boat out into Sound.
Another good tip. Te Anau to Milford road is decidely tricky - glad our driver Alex knows his way around. Stunning 120k two-and-a-half-hour ride takes you into heart of wild and wonderful country where ice and snow collide with rainforest. This is an area of towering cascades and massive waterfalls and where avalanches have wreaked untold damage.
Our day is grey and wet (which is actually perfect. The rainier the better, the waterfalls are fuller, and the Sound itself more atmospheric). Majestic country. John glad he is not driving, so he can take scenery in. Coach is top-notch, with clear glass windows in roof too, so you can look up and view above as well as to the side. Innovative idea - and it works well.
Highlights of drive include Mirror Lakes (lakes reflect mountans across valley), Homer Tunnel (a dark and forbidding 1200m long road tunnel dripping with ice-melt) and the awesome forest-clad Cleddau Valley (the Welsh influence is everywhere here).
Our first sight of Milford Sound astonishes us. Massive Mitre Peak is trying to break through the cloud and mist as we board the Milford Mariner for a three-hour nature cruise. It's stagerring, with sheer cliffs and forests coming down to meet the deep, dark blue waters of the Sound. We seem to be having four seasons in one day - rain, cold, sun, warmth, snow and ice. There are waterfalls everywhere we look - one is three-and-a-half times the height of Niagra Falls, but doesn't seem it as it is dwarfed by the vastness of the cliffs surrounding it.
The Milford Mariner - a sail vessel - takes us deep into the Sound and then out into the Tasman Sea which, while calm today, still offers up a two-metre swell - enough to keep you clinging tightly on to the deck rail.
Lots of fur seals to see and a couple of penguins too - a real highlight. On way back up Sound we stop near waterfall to feel power of spray. Astonishing. Nature at its rawest. The whole Milford experience totally spellbining, making one feel like an insignificant dot on Planet Earth.
Time to come back down to earth - and reflect on a quite magnificent day out over a fish supper from a roadside van. Localy caught blue cod, mussels & squid, plus a healthy (perhaps unhealthy) portion of chips hit the spot. Time to hit the snooze buttons.
Monday 8 November 2010
Sunday 7 November 2010
South Island
Wellington
They don't call Wellington the windy city for nothing. Here for a couple of nights before catching ferry across to South Island. It's windy all right in NZ's capital, which Lonely Planet has just named the ''coolest little city in the world.'' It's cool, but in more ways than one. We are going to need a few extra layers for that journey across the Cook Strait.
On the upside, there's plenty of sun - and the backdrop of hillsides, dotted with timber-clad homes, reaching down down to meet the harbour makes it a fine looking place. Shades of San Francisco without the trams, though it does have a cable car.
Spend some time in the city itself - we buy a couple of fleeces! - and on the waterfront and spend the night taking in the sights around Courtenay Place, Welly's equivalent to Wind St in Swansea. This is where Wellingtonians go to let their hair down on Friday and Saturday nights - and just like the guys and gals back home they know how to party. With that early ferry to catch, we settle for a few quiet drinks in a little Irish bar off Cuba St - another ''happening place'' - and a meal in a rustic little Italian joint. Happy to watch the throngs outside dresssed up for Halloween. Spooky being here on the other side of the world on Oct 31.
Cook Strait and Marlborough Sounds
Boy are we glad we bought those fleeces now. Drive campervan on and head for top deck of ferry. It's cold - and we face a three-hour crossing to Picton on the South Island. The wind is still playing tricks as we leave the harbour and Cook Strait has a reputation for cutting up rough.
Chris will admit to not being the best of sailors and prefers to tough it out on the top deck, cold or not, rather than below where listing motion of ship isn't the best if you suffer from sea-sickness. With about six layers on, she looks like Nanuka of the North. Being the good soul I am, I stay with her, though do occasionally go a couple of decks below, not to get warm I hasten to add but to watch how NZ are doing against the Aussies on Sky Sports. Back up on deck rewarded with wonderful views of the inlets and waterways that make up the Marlborough Sounds - and the crossing has been kind with the swells fairly gentle. ''Nanuka'' reports that she is feeling okay.
Picton
Little Picton so different to Welly. Quiet and quaint little harbour town, but with some good places to eat and a couple of decent bars - the Scottish-owned Flying Haggis and Irish-run Seamus's, which is much more like an Irish pub back in Killarney or Kilkenny rather than those awful big city excuses for ones.
Take the campervan for drive around the Sounds and do a good bit of walking on point called Snout Head. Resembles Worm's Head a little. Stop at tiny harbour village of Havelock for lunch and watch the world - and boaters - go by. Try the green mussels speciality of the region - delicious. Decide we fancy trying a bit of wine tasting, so book for tour of vineyards next day.
Wine-tasting NZ-style
Plump for Na Clachan Wine Tours for spot of vino tasting and so glad we did. We are new to this game but Helen, our guide for the day, puts us immediately at ease with her relaxed and friendly manner. We warm to her straight away - as we will to the wine, we are sure. Jump into Helen's minibus and meet up with another couple, Tony and Rachel, who have just come up river on paddle-steamer. One more couple to meet at first winery.
Marlborough is the largest wine-producing region in NZ and especially famous for its Sauvingon Blanc because of its warm days and cool nights. Hey, your're listening to wine buffs now, you know.
Visit four wineries in all - starting with medium-sized independent Lawson Dry Hills, then on to famous Cloudy Bay, which turns out to be owned by Louis Vuitton (something we had not appreciated), Mahi Wines, a small independent, and finaly the largest of the independents Villa Maria, whose products can be found in many of our supermarkets back in the UK, but not the ones we were sampling.
Really enjoyable day out, with Helen, who herself grows organic chardonnay for the Allan Scott winery, proving so knowledgeable. Return feeling a tad tired - can't be the wine, can it? Have collected a case - around three bottles from each winery - to send back to UK. Please leave some for us!
During trip got talking to Helen about music. She tells us that she is going to see Leonard Cohen in Christchurch following day. We say we would love to go, as do Tony and Rachel, but that we don't know how to get tickets.
Wendy, who runs rental cottage side of Na Clachan business and who we meet at one of the wineries, says she will see if she can get some for us. She does. Helen and Wendy - what gems you are. Here we are on a wine tour - and these two lovely ladies end up getting us tickets for Cohen concert. Gobsmacked.
Picton to Christchurch
Five-hour drive to Christchurch - and it's awesome. Much of it is coastal. We are heading down to and beyond Kaikoura. The scenery here is even better than Highway 1 in California - and that's saying something. You drive south hemmed in by the snow-capped Seaward Kaikoura mountain range on one side and the turbulent turquoise Pacific on the other. Never driven with sea so close.
You can almost sense that these huge aqua-marine breakers are going to crash against you. Feel like stopping at almost every turn and twist of road to look out to ccean and up to 2,500metre peaks. Hundreds and hundreds of seals on rocks just alongside us - basking in the spring sunshine. Sea-life up close and personal - and totally and utterly wild. One of the great ocean drives, for sure.
Christchurch
Great seats in stalls very close to stage for Leonard Cohen concert. Sublime night watching a master craftsman at work - unmissable, and thanks to Helen and Wendy we didn't miss it. Met up with Tony and Rachel - and they like us were knocked out by the poet-singer genius at work in front of them. A very special evening.
John fancies catching some live rugby while in NZ and the ITM Cup Final is being played in CC on Friday night between Canterbury and Waikato, so we decide to come back but first we are heading out to an area called The Banks Peninsula to stay for one night.
Akaroa and The Banks Peninsula
Gorgeous little spot on a peninsula which is shaped like a fan. Full of small inlets, harbours and beaches. Akaroa is very French in style, even down to its street names. The country's first French settlers made their home here in the early to mid 1800s - and the influence is stil strong. It's also a big swimming with dolphins and penguin-sighting area.
Chris enjoys a visit to The Giant's House (recommended to her by a lady at Little River where we had stopped earlier). Wonderful scent of jasmine and honeysuckle in air, and house and garden gorgeous. Garden, full of mosaic sculptures, has evolved over the years and is owner and artist Josie Martin's pride and joy. Blend of flowers, sculptures and French cafe musical playing gives almost whimsical effect. A special place. Chris gets talking to Josie and it turns out she was at Cohen concert too - a small world here in NZ. John wanders around harbour, soaking up sunshine on lovely afternoon.
Our campsite is perched on bluff overlooking harbour and we are rewarded with magnificent sunset that evening - one of the best we have ever seen.
Christchurch revisited
Weather could not be more different. Wet, windy, downright horrible, in fact. Spend day looking aroud CC and drinking copious amounts of coffee. Rain too heavy to really enjoy city, but visit CC cathedral in centre of town. Impressive, as is River Avon which cuts through middle of city. CC stil recovering from recent earthquake and we see evidence of some historic buildings that caught brunt of it.
John gets to see his rugby - Canterbury beat Waikato 33-13 - at Jade Stadium (once Lancaster Park). Fine stadium with good views out to city and hillsides beyond. High up in stand - and the rain is tipping down and wind howling. Still he enjoys game (game much quicker than back home) and meeting up with some local fans in bar afterwards. A wet - inside and outside - John returns to campervan looking forward to some warming spag boll.
They don't call Wellington the windy city for nothing. Here for a couple of nights before catching ferry across to South Island. It's windy all right in NZ's capital, which Lonely Planet has just named the ''coolest little city in the world.'' It's cool, but in more ways than one. We are going to need a few extra layers for that journey across the Cook Strait.
On the upside, there's plenty of sun - and the backdrop of hillsides, dotted with timber-clad homes, reaching down down to meet the harbour makes it a fine looking place. Shades of San Francisco without the trams, though it does have a cable car.
Spend some time in the city itself - we buy a couple of fleeces! - and on the waterfront and spend the night taking in the sights around Courtenay Place, Welly's equivalent to Wind St in Swansea. This is where Wellingtonians go to let their hair down on Friday and Saturday nights - and just like the guys and gals back home they know how to party. With that early ferry to catch, we settle for a few quiet drinks in a little Irish bar off Cuba St - another ''happening place'' - and a meal in a rustic little Italian joint. Happy to watch the throngs outside dresssed up for Halloween. Spooky being here on the other side of the world on Oct 31.
Cook Strait and Marlborough Sounds
Boy are we glad we bought those fleeces now. Drive campervan on and head for top deck of ferry. It's cold - and we face a three-hour crossing to Picton on the South Island. The wind is still playing tricks as we leave the harbour and Cook Strait has a reputation for cutting up rough.
Chris will admit to not being the best of sailors and prefers to tough it out on the top deck, cold or not, rather than below where listing motion of ship isn't the best if you suffer from sea-sickness. With about six layers on, she looks like Nanuka of the North. Being the good soul I am, I stay with her, though do occasionally go a couple of decks below, not to get warm I hasten to add but to watch how NZ are doing against the Aussies on Sky Sports. Back up on deck rewarded with wonderful views of the inlets and waterways that make up the Marlborough Sounds - and the crossing has been kind with the swells fairly gentle. ''Nanuka'' reports that she is feeling okay.
Picton
Little Picton so different to Welly. Quiet and quaint little harbour town, but with some good places to eat and a couple of decent bars - the Scottish-owned Flying Haggis and Irish-run Seamus's, which is much more like an Irish pub back in Killarney or Kilkenny rather than those awful big city excuses for ones.
Take the campervan for drive around the Sounds and do a good bit of walking on point called Snout Head. Resembles Worm's Head a little. Stop at tiny harbour village of Havelock for lunch and watch the world - and boaters - go by. Try the green mussels speciality of the region - delicious. Decide we fancy trying a bit of wine tasting, so book for tour of vineyards next day.
Wine-tasting NZ-style
Plump for Na Clachan Wine Tours for spot of vino tasting and so glad we did. We are new to this game but Helen, our guide for the day, puts us immediately at ease with her relaxed and friendly manner. We warm to her straight away - as we will to the wine, we are sure. Jump into Helen's minibus and meet up with another couple, Tony and Rachel, who have just come up river on paddle-steamer. One more couple to meet at first winery.
Marlborough is the largest wine-producing region in NZ and especially famous for its Sauvingon Blanc because of its warm days and cool nights. Hey, your're listening to wine buffs now, you know.
Visit four wineries in all - starting with medium-sized independent Lawson Dry Hills, then on to famous Cloudy Bay, which turns out to be owned by Louis Vuitton (something we had not appreciated), Mahi Wines, a small independent, and finaly the largest of the independents Villa Maria, whose products can be found in many of our supermarkets back in the UK, but not the ones we were sampling.
Really enjoyable day out, with Helen, who herself grows organic chardonnay for the Allan Scott winery, proving so knowledgeable. Return feeling a tad tired - can't be the wine, can it? Have collected a case - around three bottles from each winery - to send back to UK. Please leave some for us!
During trip got talking to Helen about music. She tells us that she is going to see Leonard Cohen in Christchurch following day. We say we would love to go, as do Tony and Rachel, but that we don't know how to get tickets.
Wendy, who runs rental cottage side of Na Clachan business and who we meet at one of the wineries, says she will see if she can get some for us. She does. Helen and Wendy - what gems you are. Here we are on a wine tour - and these two lovely ladies end up getting us tickets for Cohen concert. Gobsmacked.
Picton to Christchurch
Five-hour drive to Christchurch - and it's awesome. Much of it is coastal. We are heading down to and beyond Kaikoura. The scenery here is even better than Highway 1 in California - and that's saying something. You drive south hemmed in by the snow-capped Seaward Kaikoura mountain range on one side and the turbulent turquoise Pacific on the other. Never driven with sea so close.
You can almost sense that these huge aqua-marine breakers are going to crash against you. Feel like stopping at almost every turn and twist of road to look out to ccean and up to 2,500metre peaks. Hundreds and hundreds of seals on rocks just alongside us - basking in the spring sunshine. Sea-life up close and personal - and totally and utterly wild. One of the great ocean drives, for sure.
Christchurch
Great seats in stalls very close to stage for Leonard Cohen concert. Sublime night watching a master craftsman at work - unmissable, and thanks to Helen and Wendy we didn't miss it. Met up with Tony and Rachel - and they like us were knocked out by the poet-singer genius at work in front of them. A very special evening.
John fancies catching some live rugby while in NZ and the ITM Cup Final is being played in CC on Friday night between Canterbury and Waikato, so we decide to come back but first we are heading out to an area called The Banks Peninsula to stay for one night.
Akaroa and The Banks Peninsula
Gorgeous little spot on a peninsula which is shaped like a fan. Full of small inlets, harbours and beaches. Akaroa is very French in style, even down to its street names. The country's first French settlers made their home here in the early to mid 1800s - and the influence is stil strong. It's also a big swimming with dolphins and penguin-sighting area.
Chris enjoys a visit to The Giant's House (recommended to her by a lady at Little River where we had stopped earlier). Wonderful scent of jasmine and honeysuckle in air, and house and garden gorgeous. Garden, full of mosaic sculptures, has evolved over the years and is owner and artist Josie Martin's pride and joy. Blend of flowers, sculptures and French cafe musical playing gives almost whimsical effect. A special place. Chris gets talking to Josie and it turns out she was at Cohen concert too - a small world here in NZ. John wanders around harbour, soaking up sunshine on lovely afternoon.
Our campsite is perched on bluff overlooking harbour and we are rewarded with magnificent sunset that evening - one of the best we have ever seen.
Christchurch revisited
Weather could not be more different. Wet, windy, downright horrible, in fact. Spend day looking aroud CC and drinking copious amounts of coffee. Rain too heavy to really enjoy city, but visit CC cathedral in centre of town. Impressive, as is River Avon which cuts through middle of city. CC stil recovering from recent earthquake and we see evidence of some historic buildings that caught brunt of it.
John gets to see his rugby - Canterbury beat Waikato 33-13 - at Jade Stadium (once Lancaster Park). Fine stadium with good views out to city and hillsides beyond. High up in stand - and the rain is tipping down and wind howling. Still he enjoys game (game much quicker than back home) and meeting up with some local fans in bar afterwards. A wet - inside and outside - John returns to campervan looking forward to some warming spag boll.
Tuesday 2 November 2010
Monday 1 November 2010
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North Island cont.
Bay of Islands
Heading south-east from 'up north' to the Bay of Islands - a string of undeveloped islands in turquoise waters. It's one of NZ's top tourist attractions and easy to see why. This is where Aucklanders head on weekends - and being sunny and warm, and Labor weekend to boot, it's busy around here. A beautiful spot, though, for sure - and much history attached. The Bay was the site of the first European settlement and also where the Declaration of Independence of New Zealand was signed in 1835. It really is a gorgeous day and we spend the afternoon here - not long enough - before pushing on further south to our campsite for the night.
Horse-riding on Pakiri Beach
Early start to Sunday morning as Chris has booked in to for a two-hour horse ride on Pakiri Beach - a stunning white sand bay which stretches north and south as far as the eye can see. The stables house around 100 horses - and Chris get to partner one of them named 'Beckham'. Off Becks and Chris go, while I take a stroll on Pakiri - get my shorts well wet while wading across a stream to get to the beach (yup a lot deeper than I had accounted for) and get chased by two angry and very aggressive terns who had decided that I had come too close to their nesting area. They looked mad and mean, so I beat a hasty retreat to the solitude of the beach.
Chris reports that she had a great time with Becks, cantering through dunes and woods and along the edge of the ocean. Heaven, but it takes its toll on the knees, which Chris reports are 'killing me.' Must be old age, luv!
Goat Island
No goats on this island, despite its unusual name - but sea around it is like an aquarium. You only need to step into the water knee-deep to see all sorts of marine life - giant blue-dotted snappers and blue maomao. Visibility for snorkelling is superb and there are many people scuba diving here. Cooler water than Fiji for sure, but warmer than back home so John takes the plunge. Yes, some great fish out there and coming out of the water he nearly steps on a stingray, which is not a good idea. Fortunately, the beautiful and big ray has spotted the clumsy-hoofed Welshman heading his way and makes a dignified exit to deeper waters. John's glad, though admits that this close encounter of the sea kind was a thrilling one. We round off day with a great meal at a local restaurant/microbrewery called The Sawmill Cafe. Chris tries the snapper (delicious). No stingray on the menu, nor goat either! John goes for rabbit (delicious too).
Raglan (not South-East Wales, but West Coast, NZ)
We have been on the road two months to the day. Can't quite believe it. Time seems to be flying by. It's back down through Auckland and west across to Raglan - a small surfing town and one of the top places in NZ to catch quality waves. The classic 60s surf film The Endless Summer was shot at nearby Manu Bay. The day we visit the surf is not big, but we can see why surf dudes head here in search of trying to catch the perfect wave, which was what Bruce Brown's film was all about. We like Raglan, it's a very easy-going, laid-back kind of a place where one sunny day just drifts into another. Love to see it when the surf at Manu is really up.
Lake Taupo
The lake, born out a volcanic eruption, is NZ's largest - and we pull in to a nearby campsite to check it and surrounding area out. Take a long and quite challenging walk to Huka Falls on NZ's longest river The Waikato. It's a 3-hr round trip, but well worth it as was soaking our feet in a natural hot spring on the way back. Lake Taupo itself is stunning too - a much bigger version of Crater Lake in Oregon. Next day we head for the Tongariro National Park and on the way stop off to see some very brave folk bungy jump off a cliff edge over the Waikato. It's a 47m hurtle into oblivion and a dunk in the river below for your troubles. Us non-brave people stand in awe on a platform jutting out over the river watching, which suits us just fine.
Tongariro National Park
This is active volcano country dominated by three near 3,000-metre peaks - Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. The latter was chosen as Mt Doom and the area around it as Mordor in The Lord Of The Rings movie trilogy. This is serious hiking country. Not being serious hikers we take the easy option and drive as near to the volcanoes as we can - and yes, some of them are smoking. It's a cloudy day when we visit and the peaks are not truly visible, but we see enough. 'Mt Doom' is the most breath-taking of the three - it's one conical vent soaring skywards into the clouds, while Mt Ruapehu was still capped in heavy snow. Called in to tiny ski resort village of Whakapapa to get great views of volcanoes before staying for night in quiet village of Ohakune, apprently the country's carrot capital. The world's largest carrot was grown here and is preserved at the entrance to the town. John just has to have picture of himself with carrot. Wot next!
Wellington-bound
South Island next, so a long drive on to Wellington, NZ's capital where we will pick up ferry for three-hour crossing across Cook Strait. On the way down stop at Tangiwai Memorial which marks the scene of one of NZ's worst disasters. On Christmas Eve 1953 the level of the crater lake on Mt Ruapehu rose, a dam burst and a 20ft wave of water and mud swept down the mountain and reduced the railway bridge to a tangled and twisted rubble of iron moments before a crowded express train was due to arrive. Despite the heroic efforts of a local man, armed with just a torch, to try warn the engine driver of the impending disaster, the train hurtled into the chasm below killing more than 150 people. The spot is an eerie and poignant place to visit, the river running so quietly. Hard to believe such a terrible disaster could have occured there.
On a happier note we also take time out at a little town called Taihape. Now if Ohakune is the carrot capital of NZ, then Taihape is recognised as The Gumboot Capital of the World and has a large gumboot at its entrance to mark the distinction. Chris just has to have a picture of herself with gumboot. Wot next!
Last stop before Welly (Wellington) is Gravity Canyon where adrenaline freaks can bungy jump or do tandem swings over incredible gorge. Scary stuff again, even for us mere onlookers. Countryside around here is amazing - weird pointy hills everywhere. Expecting hobbits to pop out of them at any time. Like Tongariro, real Lord of The Rings and Hobbit country - a perfect place for Hobbiton, we think.
Heading south-east from 'up north' to the Bay of Islands - a string of undeveloped islands in turquoise waters. It's one of NZ's top tourist attractions and easy to see why. This is where Aucklanders head on weekends - and being sunny and warm, and Labor weekend to boot, it's busy around here. A beautiful spot, though, for sure - and much history attached. The Bay was the site of the first European settlement and also where the Declaration of Independence of New Zealand was signed in 1835. It really is a gorgeous day and we spend the afternoon here - not long enough - before pushing on further south to our campsite for the night.
Horse-riding on Pakiri Beach
Early start to Sunday morning as Chris has booked in to for a two-hour horse ride on Pakiri Beach - a stunning white sand bay which stretches north and south as far as the eye can see. The stables house around 100 horses - and Chris get to partner one of them named 'Beckham'. Off Becks and Chris go, while I take a stroll on Pakiri - get my shorts well wet while wading across a stream to get to the beach (yup a lot deeper than I had accounted for) and get chased by two angry and very aggressive terns who had decided that I had come too close to their nesting area. They looked mad and mean, so I beat a hasty retreat to the solitude of the beach.
Chris reports that she had a great time with Becks, cantering through dunes and woods and along the edge of the ocean. Heaven, but it takes its toll on the knees, which Chris reports are 'killing me.' Must be old age, luv!
Goat Island
No goats on this island, despite its unusual name - but sea around it is like an aquarium. You only need to step into the water knee-deep to see all sorts of marine life - giant blue-dotted snappers and blue maomao. Visibility for snorkelling is superb and there are many people scuba diving here. Cooler water than Fiji for sure, but warmer than back home so John takes the plunge. Yes, some great fish out there and coming out of the water he nearly steps on a stingray, which is not a good idea. Fortunately, the beautiful and big ray has spotted the clumsy-hoofed Welshman heading his way and makes a dignified exit to deeper waters. John's glad, though admits that this close encounter of the sea kind was a thrilling one. We round off day with a great meal at a local restaurant/microbrewery called The Sawmill Cafe. Chris tries the snapper (delicious). No stingray on the menu, nor goat either! John goes for rabbit (delicious too).
Raglan (not South-East Wales, but West Coast, NZ)
We have been on the road two months to the day. Can't quite believe it. Time seems to be flying by. It's back down through Auckland and west across to Raglan - a small surfing town and one of the top places in NZ to catch quality waves. The classic 60s surf film The Endless Summer was shot at nearby Manu Bay. The day we visit the surf is not big, but we can see why surf dudes head here in search of trying to catch the perfect wave, which was what Bruce Brown's film was all about. We like Raglan, it's a very easy-going, laid-back kind of a place where one sunny day just drifts into another. Love to see it when the surf at Manu is really up.
Lake Taupo
The lake, born out a volcanic eruption, is NZ's largest - and we pull in to a nearby campsite to check it and surrounding area out. Take a long and quite challenging walk to Huka Falls on NZ's longest river The Waikato. It's a 3-hr round trip, but well worth it as was soaking our feet in a natural hot spring on the way back. Lake Taupo itself is stunning too - a much bigger version of Crater Lake in Oregon. Next day we head for the Tongariro National Park and on the way stop off to see some very brave folk bungy jump off a cliff edge over the Waikato. It's a 47m hurtle into oblivion and a dunk in the river below for your troubles. Us non-brave people stand in awe on a platform jutting out over the river watching, which suits us just fine.
Tongariro National Park
This is active volcano country dominated by three near 3,000-metre peaks - Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe. The latter was chosen as Mt Doom and the area around it as Mordor in The Lord Of The Rings movie trilogy. This is serious hiking country. Not being serious hikers we take the easy option and drive as near to the volcanoes as we can - and yes, some of them are smoking. It's a cloudy day when we visit and the peaks are not truly visible, but we see enough. 'Mt Doom' is the most breath-taking of the three - it's one conical vent soaring skywards into the clouds, while Mt Ruapehu was still capped in heavy snow. Called in to tiny ski resort village of Whakapapa to get great views of volcanoes before staying for night in quiet village of Ohakune, apprently the country's carrot capital. The world's largest carrot was grown here and is preserved at the entrance to the town. John just has to have picture of himself with carrot. Wot next!
Wellington-bound
South Island next, so a long drive on to Wellington, NZ's capital where we will pick up ferry for three-hour crossing across Cook Strait. On the way down stop at Tangiwai Memorial which marks the scene of one of NZ's worst disasters. On Christmas Eve 1953 the level of the crater lake on Mt Ruapehu rose, a dam burst and a 20ft wave of water and mud swept down the mountain and reduced the railway bridge to a tangled and twisted rubble of iron moments before a crowded express train was due to arrive. Despite the heroic efforts of a local man, armed with just a torch, to try warn the engine driver of the impending disaster, the train hurtled into the chasm below killing more than 150 people. The spot is an eerie and poignant place to visit, the river running so quietly. Hard to believe such a terrible disaster could have occured there.
On a happier note we also take time out at a little town called Taihape. Now if Ohakune is the carrot capital of NZ, then Taihape is recognised as The Gumboot Capital of the World and has a large gumboot at its entrance to mark the distinction. Chris just has to have a picture of herself with gumboot. Wot next!
Last stop before Welly (Wellington) is Gravity Canyon where adrenaline freaks can bungy jump or do tandem swings over incredible gorge. Scary stuff again, even for us mere onlookers. Countryside around here is amazing - weird pointy hills everywhere. Expecting hobbits to pop out of them at any time. Like Tongariro, real Lord of The Rings and Hobbit country - a perfect place for Hobbiton, we think.
Wednesday 27 October 2010
Ahipara, Shipwreck Bay & Ninety-Mile Beach
Our first sight of ocean for a few days stops us in our tracks as we head further north. We are climbing and climbing twisting roads when suddenly Hokianga Harbour comes into view hundreds of feet below - and views across to wild and aquamarine Tasman Sea sees campervan make screeching halt for photocall. Can't stop long. We've a ferry to catch across harbour - a 15-minute journey - and then it's on to Ahipara, a tiny beach town which sits at the southern end of Ninety-Mile Beach. Nearby is superlative surfing beach backed by huge dunes called Shipwreck Bay, with some of the glassiest left-handers on the planet. Hey, we who hang out at Langland and Llangennith know our waves!
Next day, it's a trip to Ninety-Mile Beach. We skip the van on locals advice and take a coach trip to Cape Reinga, the furthest point north in NZ. Looking out from the lonely windswept lighthouse at the point where The Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet gives us an other-worldy feeling (sorry, but Land's End and The Lizard will never seem quite the same anymore).
Waves have been known to reach up to 10m high here on stormy days. Thankfully for our visit the weather is kind - but there is no escaping the sheer majesty of this place. At the very bottom of the cape is an 800-year-old pohutukawa tree, spiritually significant for Maoris as the place where souls depart from this life into the next.
Blown away by Cape Reinga - not literally, thankfully - it's time to get back on the old bus. On to Ninety-Mile Beach (and on it we mean). First, though, some dune tobogganing. Our coach takes us along a riverbed (the secret is not to stop or you will get stuck in the sand - no fun when the Tasman is coming in). Ahead are massive sand dunes - the climb up them once does for John (one toboggan down is enough). Chris, in fairness, tackles the summit three times and has some thrilling rides down dunes, though she returns to coach looking as if she has spent a week in the Sahara Desert. Empty those shoes, please.
Now for an epic return journey. Having taken first stage by road, it's back along the beach - 50-odd kilometres of it to our campsite. Yes, this beach is actually a designated highway. Dunes to the left of us, Tasman Sea to the right. Breathtakingly beautiful, but surreal also.
Luckily our coach driver knows what he is doing, which is more than can be said for some who have lost vehicles to the ocean. We saw a few cars which had been buried, just the tips of their roofs showing beneath the sand - sunken cars, not ships on this wildest of coasts.
Next day, it's a trip to Ninety-Mile Beach. We skip the van on locals advice and take a coach trip to Cape Reinga, the furthest point north in NZ. Looking out from the lonely windswept lighthouse at the point where The Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet gives us an other-worldy feeling (sorry, but Land's End and The Lizard will never seem quite the same anymore).
Waves have been known to reach up to 10m high here on stormy days. Thankfully for our visit the weather is kind - but there is no escaping the sheer majesty of this place. At the very bottom of the cape is an 800-year-old pohutukawa tree, spiritually significant for Maoris as the place where souls depart from this life into the next.
Blown away by Cape Reinga - not literally, thankfully - it's time to get back on the old bus. On to Ninety-Mile Beach (and on it we mean). First, though, some dune tobogganing. Our coach takes us along a riverbed (the secret is not to stop or you will get stuck in the sand - no fun when the Tasman is coming in). Ahead are massive sand dunes - the climb up them once does for John (one toboggan down is enough). Chris, in fairness, tackles the summit three times and has some thrilling rides down dunes, though she returns to coach looking as if she has spent a week in the Sahara Desert. Empty those shoes, please.
Now for an epic return journey. Having taken first stage by road, it's back along the beach - 50-odd kilometres of it to our campsite. Yes, this beach is actually a designated highway. Dunes to the left of us, Tasman Sea to the right. Breathtakingly beautiful, but surreal also.
Luckily our coach driver knows what he is doing, which is more than can be said for some who have lost vehicles to the ocean. We saw a few cars which had been buried, just the tips of their roofs showing beneath the sand - sunken cars, not ships on this wildest of coasts.
North Island
Helensville: Picked up campervan at airport - a new experience for us both and headed out of Auckland. A bit hairy at first, felt like driving a bus. This thing is big. Decided not to drive too far on first day - an hour just the job up to little village on West Coast. We are real novices at this campervaning lark, but meet NZ pair Steve and Ian and their wives and they put us right on a few basics (what to do with your waste for one - use the dump station!). Campground has thermal pools - outdoor one 32C, indoor 39.5C. Chilled out, but hot at same time, if you get our drift.
Waipou Forest. One of the highlights of North West Coast is this kauri tree forest. These trees are mighty indeed. One known as The God of the Forest, the other The Father of the Forest. 'God' has been around 2,000 years and is a pretty awe-inspiring sight. Also went on guided night-time nature walk in forest (John did this under protest, but secretly enjoyed it) and saw gloworms, Kauri snails (big, big, very big), large eels, possums and some very hairy and scary spiders. Elusive Kiwi, however, failed to make appearance.
On way to forest stopped at little roadside cafe. So good was the coffee that we left our rucksack, containing passports, money and air travel tickets, behind. Some 40 minutes away and several miles on, Chris realises what we have done. Luckily there is an into information centre close by. We call in - and they save day by calling cafe, who confirm bag is safe and sound. Phew! Close call and a lesson learned. On way back see road sign for Brynderwyn among more traditional Maori names. Can't possibly be a Welshman who named village, can it?
Waipou Forest. One of the highlights of North West Coast is this kauri tree forest. These trees are mighty indeed. One known as The God of the Forest, the other The Father of the Forest. 'God' has been around 2,000 years and is a pretty awe-inspiring sight. Also went on guided night-time nature walk in forest (John did this under protest, but secretly enjoyed it) and saw gloworms, Kauri snails (big, big, very big), large eels, possums and some very hairy and scary spiders. Elusive Kiwi, however, failed to make appearance.
On way to forest stopped at little roadside cafe. So good was the coffee that we left our rucksack, containing passports, money and air travel tickets, behind. Some 40 minutes away and several miles on, Chris realises what we have done. Luckily there is an into information centre close by. We call in - and they save day by calling cafe, who confirm bag is safe and sound. Phew! Close call and a lesson learned. On way back see road sign for Brynderwyn among more traditional Maori names. Can't possibly be a Welshman who named village, can it?
Auckland
Never did get around to seeing Eden Park, although Auckland were home to Otago in ITM Cup. Too much to see and too many bars to check out on city's waterfront. (If you are coming over for World Cup be ready to fork out big bucks for food and drink - cheap it ain't). Expensive it might be, but Auckland is a good looking place with two magnificent harbours filled with ships and boats of all descriptions and sizes. Not for nothing is it called the City of Sails. By the way NZ really is ready for the World Cup - honest. Look for picture on blog of one of the many adverts for rugby's biggest global event. Girl on left is hanging up Wales shirt. Let's hope our boys won't be hung out to dry.
New Zealand - North Island
Quick update - for those looking for Fiji narrative, please click on to 'Older Blogs.' Thanks, everyone.
Arrived in New Zealand to find that they are some way off getting their grounds in shape for the Rugby World Cup 2011. See pictures above! Shocked to find main stand at one club looking in need of a bit of repair and a lick of paint. Scratched our heads to find any hospitality tents or even a bar area for few sherberts, and the playing surface looked a tad dodgy too. Hope Auckland's Eden Park, which hosts the final, will be in better nick.
Never like this at Broadacre, or Parc Mawr. What will our boys make of playing on such pitches we don't know. Seems to us the Kiwis have got an advantage from the off, and how are mam and dad going to get tickets in such a cramped seating area, and they'll get wet when the roof leaks, as it's sure to do.
Not content with making us suffer an unfair advantage, the NZ papers are full of this Sonny Bill Williams fellow, who many Kiwis reckon is the best thing since sliced bread. Let's hope Ryan can get hold of this new 'fifth-eights' Canterbury wonder boy and stop him in his tracks. C'mon Wales.
Arrived in New Zealand to find that they are some way off getting their grounds in shape for the Rugby World Cup 2011. See pictures above! Shocked to find main stand at one club looking in need of a bit of repair and a lick of paint. Scratched our heads to find any hospitality tents or even a bar area for few sherberts, and the playing surface looked a tad dodgy too. Hope Auckland's Eden Park, which hosts the final, will be in better nick.
Never like this at Broadacre, or Parc Mawr. What will our boys make of playing on such pitches we don't know. Seems to us the Kiwis have got an advantage from the off, and how are mam and dad going to get tickets in such a cramped seating area, and they'll get wet when the roof leaks, as it's sure to do.
Not content with making us suffer an unfair advantage, the NZ papers are full of this Sonny Bill Williams fellow, who many Kiwis reckon is the best thing since sliced bread. Let's hope Ryan can get hold of this new 'fifth-eights' Canterbury wonder boy and stop him in his tracks. C'mon Wales.
Wednesday 20 October 2010
Fiji
Fiji - fabulous, friendly and fun, and it's the first time we've taken 3 flights from one place to get to another. It's a 10 hour-plus night flight from LA to Nadi on West Coast of the main island Viti Levu, but we're headed for Ovalau in Middle Fiji, so must board two more planes. The first takes us to the capital Suva on East Coast where we clamber onto a tiny eight-seater for our six-night stay in Levuka, Fiji's former capital.
There are spectacular aerial views of countless coral reefs amid aquamarine ocean on our 12-minute journey. After landing on narrow tarmac strip in field, we are met by taxi driver Moon who drives us 45 minutes on dirt track road to the old whaling outpost of Levuka - a timber-fronted town with a wealth of sea-faring history and one of the few places left in the South Pacific to have kept its original colonial buildings. It's main street fronts the sea, looming behind it are towering tropical green mountains.
We are staying at the Levuka Homestay and are met by owners John & Marilyn, a wonderful Aussie couple who fell in love with Fiji and its people years ago and decided to follow their dream by making their home here. After six days with them we felt not so much guests at their 'home from home' but friends, such was their warmth and friendliness. Their depth of knowledge of Fiji and its people gave us a real insight into the land and its culture and we left feeling we had experienced The Real Fiji.
Their multi-level homestay has four large rooms with terrace, with John & Marilyn, their four cats and parrot occupying the highest section. Their lovely staff - but more family really - include local ladies La and Matilda and gardener and Levuka expert Nox.
To call breakfast 'breakfast' is to do John & Marilyn a disservice - rather it is an event. Fresh fruit, cereal, toast, cheese and tomato, plus homemade relish, followed by freshly baked cakes and banana pancakes, with passion-fruit butter - and that's before the bacon and eggs arrive. Brekkie and conversation can take two hours. If you are feeling hungry before 7pm then there is something seriously wrong with you!
Breakfast is taken around a large table and there we're joined on the first couple of days by meidcal friends Catherine (England), Francois (France) and Katie (Canada), who are all currently working for a short spell at the hospital in Suva, and had come to Levuka to enjoy a long weekend.
Latterly, Sam and Polly join us at the table - two 27-year-olds free spirits who have quit top jobs in London to go travelling for a year. What a brave & great pair they are - these two have done more in their short time on Planet Earth than many who live to be 90. They kept us enthralled with tales of their previous adventures (one very hairy one in Malaysia in particular) and in stitches with some others (promise not to tell anyone, Sam!).
Okay, if breakfast was the real deal so were the 'sundowners' every evening on John and Marilyn's huge deck balcony overlooking the ocean - a few glasses of wine and more engaging conversation as we watched night fall over the gorgeous islands sprinkled out before us.
Eating and drinking aside, we did manage to get out and about a bit and see Levuka and a stunning island off it called Caqali (Fijians pronounce it Thungali). A 40-minute boat trip takes you to paradise - it's a tiny palmed-fringed island with a golden beach right around its perimeter which takes 15 minutes to walk around. Wildlife includes some stunning birds, while snorkelling in the warm-as-a-bath ocean around it takes you into a fantastic world of pink, orange, red and deep blue coral and fish quite literally every colour of the rainbow.
We bid Caqali farewell with a heavy heart, such was its beauty and promised we'd go back before we left. Two days later we were back - and glad we did despite the rain setting in this time around.
Time to bid Sydney-bound Sam and Polly farewell and spend a cracking last night with them. John takes the four of us to The Ovalau Club - 'Fiji's first gentleman's club' (what's a Welshman doing there then?) where local residents get together for a drink and a chinwag. It's an atmospheric white timber building, its bar sporting flags from all over the world (yes there is a Welsh one there) and old photographs. What a place it must have been in its old colonial heyday. A few beers later it's off to The Whale's Tale, whose friendly owners serve great fish and chips from their bamboo-thatched kitchen, and it's lots more laughs with Sam and Polly (keep in touch you two).
Only a couple more days left and those scrumptious breakfasts (diets in order in New Zealand) keep coming, but so too does the rain - no wonder Fiji is so green. Wales has seeemingly adopted Delilah as its unofficial rugby anthem, perhaps Fiji should follow suit with Green Green Grass Of Home. In fairness, though, many parts had not seen rain for months and months and the reservoirs were crying out for it. We must have brought a little of it with us from Wales, so feel we have done our bit!
Sadly our time here has come to an end, but thanks to John and Marilyn, La, Matilda, Nox, other new friends we have made, and all the smiling Fijians we have met along the way we leave with great memories of a truly special place. Keep smiling, and staying on Fiji Time.
There are spectacular aerial views of countless coral reefs amid aquamarine ocean on our 12-minute journey. After landing on narrow tarmac strip in field, we are met by taxi driver Moon who drives us 45 minutes on dirt track road to the old whaling outpost of Levuka - a timber-fronted town with a wealth of sea-faring history and one of the few places left in the South Pacific to have kept its original colonial buildings. It's main street fronts the sea, looming behind it are towering tropical green mountains.
We are staying at the Levuka Homestay and are met by owners John & Marilyn, a wonderful Aussie couple who fell in love with Fiji and its people years ago and decided to follow their dream by making their home here. After six days with them we felt not so much guests at their 'home from home' but friends, such was their warmth and friendliness. Their depth of knowledge of Fiji and its people gave us a real insight into the land and its culture and we left feeling we had experienced The Real Fiji.
Their multi-level homestay has four large rooms with terrace, with John & Marilyn, their four cats and parrot occupying the highest section. Their lovely staff - but more family really - include local ladies La and Matilda and gardener and Levuka expert Nox.
To call breakfast 'breakfast' is to do John & Marilyn a disservice - rather it is an event. Fresh fruit, cereal, toast, cheese and tomato, plus homemade relish, followed by freshly baked cakes and banana pancakes, with passion-fruit butter - and that's before the bacon and eggs arrive. Brekkie and conversation can take two hours. If you are feeling hungry before 7pm then there is something seriously wrong with you!
Breakfast is taken around a large table and there we're joined on the first couple of days by meidcal friends Catherine (England), Francois (France) and Katie (Canada), who are all currently working for a short spell at the hospital in Suva, and had come to Levuka to enjoy a long weekend.
Latterly, Sam and Polly join us at the table - two 27-year-olds free spirits who have quit top jobs in London to go travelling for a year. What a brave & great pair they are - these two have done more in their short time on Planet Earth than many who live to be 90. They kept us enthralled with tales of their previous adventures (one very hairy one in Malaysia in particular) and in stitches with some others (promise not to tell anyone, Sam!).
Okay, if breakfast was the real deal so were the 'sundowners' every evening on John and Marilyn's huge deck balcony overlooking the ocean - a few glasses of wine and more engaging conversation as we watched night fall over the gorgeous islands sprinkled out before us.
Eating and drinking aside, we did manage to get out and about a bit and see Levuka and a stunning island off it called Caqali (Fijians pronounce it Thungali). A 40-minute boat trip takes you to paradise - it's a tiny palmed-fringed island with a golden beach right around its perimeter which takes 15 minutes to walk around. Wildlife includes some stunning birds, while snorkelling in the warm-as-a-bath ocean around it takes you into a fantastic world of pink, orange, red and deep blue coral and fish quite literally every colour of the rainbow.
We bid Caqali farewell with a heavy heart, such was its beauty and promised we'd go back before we left. Two days later we were back - and glad we did despite the rain setting in this time around.
Time to bid Sydney-bound Sam and Polly farewell and spend a cracking last night with them. John takes the four of us to The Ovalau Club - 'Fiji's first gentleman's club' (what's a Welshman doing there then?) where local residents get together for a drink and a chinwag. It's an atmospheric white timber building, its bar sporting flags from all over the world (yes there is a Welsh one there) and old photographs. What a place it must have been in its old colonial heyday. A few beers later it's off to The Whale's Tale, whose friendly owners serve great fish and chips from their bamboo-thatched kitchen, and it's lots more laughs with Sam and Polly (keep in touch you two).
Only a couple more days left and those scrumptious breakfasts (diets in order in New Zealand) keep coming, but so too does the rain - no wonder Fiji is so green. Wales has seeemingly adopted Delilah as its unofficial rugby anthem, perhaps Fiji should follow suit with Green Green Grass Of Home. In fairness, though, many parts had not seen rain for months and months and the reservoirs were crying out for it. We must have brought a little of it with us from Wales, so feel we have done our bit!
Sadly our time here has come to an end, but thanks to John and Marilyn, La, Matilda, Nox, other new friends we have made, and all the smiling Fijians we have met along the way we leave with great memories of a truly special place. Keep smiling, and staying on Fiji Time.
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