Heading south on South Island

Early start out of a very wet Christchurch. Rugby was enjoyable experience - but nothing compared to news that Swans had just trounced the old enemy (some team called Cardiff) 1-0. Magic. Onwards and southwards then. Planning to drop into Queenstown - adventure capital of NZ, possibly the world - and then onto Fiordland to take in the wonders of Milford Sound. It's a long haul and fellow camper has suggested we stop over at Lake Tekapo, which he and his family enjoyed. Had intended to head down coast and across, but take his advice - and are glad we did.

Lake Tekapo
Nice one, fellow camper. What a great shout. Park up campervan after a good day's driving on edge of turquoise lake with views out to snow-capped mountains making up part of the Southern Alps range. A tad tired after long drive we wander along the lake passing by a pretty church The Church of The Good Shepherd, so named in honour of the area's pioneer sheep farmers. Couples come from all parts of the globe to marry here. No wonder, the lakeside setting is hugely romantic.
Night closes in and the stars here are remarkable. It is said to be the best place for star-gazing in entire country because of its clear skies - and who are we to argue? Twinkle twinkle little star(s) and big ones too. The quite magnificent Southern Cross dominates the darkest of skies.
Early start next day for an hour long walk to the south summit of Mt John. It's a rough path up (we are no Edmund Hillarys after all), but nevertheless an arduous and steep trek. Lots of stops along the way to catch breath. Rewarded with stupendous 360% views of mountains, including the iconic Mt Cook, and shimmering Lake Tekapo below. Next summit along houses mountain-top Astro Cafe. We head across. Coffee and cake has never tasted this good. Sit outside 'caf' on glorious day with scenery to match. Refreshed, 45-minute descent back to 'base camp' seems piece of cake after ascent! Feel pleased with our morning's exercise, but it's time to move on.

Mt Cook
Drive down from Lake Tekapo to another lake, which, impossibly as it seems, is even more turquoise. Lake Pukaki sits some 45k south-west of Tekapo and offers a picture-postcard view of the near 12,000-ft high Mt Cook - an awe-inspiring sight. We have been blessed with perfect weather again - and this incredible peak, permanently covered in snow, and soaring into a deep blue cloudless sky is hard to move on from. We have found a quiet spot on the lake just to soak up the sun and the quite sublime scenery.
Eventually drag ourselves from our Cook stupour and head further south through contrasting country towards Queenstown. Pass through a tiny town enchantingly called Twizel before long haul taking in long dry valleys, lush verdant farmland before descedning into the Kawarau Gorge through which runs a raging river. Stop off at Roaring Meg - a cauldron of water - for 'photocall' and Chris gets a couple of bites from some very ravenous sandflies. These are a pain in the a--. (though fortunately we have bites only in ankles and knees to date!)

Queenstown
Skipping the driving for a day. Decide to treat ourselves to nice breakfast of fruit (Chris, of course) and the rather (okay much) more fattening French toast and bacon (no prizes for guessing). Spend the day exploring area. It's the South Island's top tourist town, but there is no denying its beauty. Queenstown, founded by a settler from Haverfordwest, is set on Lake Wakatipu and surrounded by a stunning range of mountains called The Remarkables, which they are.
Town has gorgeous park coming down to meet water. Enjoy watching youngsters playing frisbee golf there. Hundreds of young backpackers & students on lakeshore sunbathing when they are not hurling themselves off river bridges (bungy jumping), tearing down rivers in jet-boats, white-water rafting, canyoning, sky-diving or (later at night) drinking bars dry.
John calls up friend and former work Evening Post work colleague Chris Parvin and they arrange to meet up. Chris, who has family in Mumbles, has been in NZ for 17 years, but had a couple of stints at the Post on his return to God's Country - the last around 10 years ago.
Great to see Chris. He's as chirpy and chipper as ever and in seriously top form. He and wife Alison and children are quite obviously loving the Kiwi lifestyle. Spend a super few hours over a couple of 'sundowners' catching up with news and local (Swansea) gossip as men do (and they say women can talk). Really glad we were able to catch up with him at such short notice - and it was (sorry Chris & Alison). We'll be more organised next time we pass through Q, promise!

Fiordland & Milford Sound
Base ourselves in quiet little Te Anau to explore wilderness area of Fiordland. It's a peaceful spot, very different to vibrant and action-packed Queenstown (which incidentally we loved). Day appears to take longer to turn to evening here in TA. Very light at 9pm, but those blasted sandflies are still biting. John's ankles look like he is suffering from bout of measles!
It's a torturous and twisting route to Milford Sound, so next day we decide on the advice of others to take coach trip before catching boat out into Sound.
Another good tip. Te Anau to Milford road is decidely tricky - glad our driver Alex knows his way around. Stunning 120k two-and-a-half-hour ride takes you into heart of wild and wonderful country where ice and snow collide with rainforest. This is an area of towering cascades and massive waterfalls and where avalanches have wreaked untold damage.
Our day is grey and wet (which is actually perfect. The rainier the better, the waterfalls are fuller, and the Sound itself more atmospheric). Majestic country. John glad he is not driving, so he can take scenery in. Coach is top-notch, with clear glass windows in roof too, so you can look up and view above as well as to the side. Innovative idea - and it works well.
Highlights of drive include Mirror Lakes (lakes reflect mountans across valley), Homer Tunnel (a dark and forbidding 1200m long road tunnel dripping with ice-melt) and the awesome forest-clad Cleddau Valley (the Welsh influence is everywhere here).
Our first sight of Milford Sound astonishes us. Massive Mitre Peak is trying to break through the cloud and mist as we board the Milford Mariner for a three-hour nature cruise. It's stagerring, with sheer cliffs and forests coming down to meet the deep, dark blue waters of the Sound. We seem to be having four seasons in one day - rain, cold, sun, warmth, snow and ice. There are waterfalls everywhere we look - one is three-and-a-half times the height of Niagra Falls, but doesn't seem it as it is dwarfed by the vastness of the cliffs surrounding it.
The Milford Mariner - a sail vessel - takes us deep into the Sound and then out into the Tasman Sea which, while calm today, still offers up a two-metre swell - enough to keep you clinging tightly on to the deck rail.
Lots of fur seals to see and a couple of penguins too - a real highlight. On way back up Sound we stop near waterfall to feel power of spray. Astonishing. Nature at its rawest. The whole Milford experience totally spellbining, making one feel like an insignificant dot on Planet Earth.
Time to come back down to earth - and reflect on a quite magnificent day out over a fish supper from a roadside van. Localy caught blue cod, mussels & squid, plus a healthy (perhaps unhealthy) portion of chips hit the spot. Time to hit the snooze buttons.