New Mexico

They say it never rains in Southern California. Maybe not, but it does in Colorado - and New Mexico, too, for that matter. Lucky we took that train ride when we did - it was a drop dead gorgeous day. Saturday proves a different kettle of fish - it's pouring as we head out of Durango for a long journey to Taos, NM. Drive up and over 10,000 elevation known as Los Brawos (not Los Bravos as we originally thought) Pass. Lonely road surrounded either side by forest.
Ryan, the barman we met in Durango, told us he had driven it at night and seen no cars on the road for 45 minutes, but that his headlights had picked out countless eyes of wild animals - it's elk, deer and coyote country - in those deep and dark woods. We see very little in the heavy rain and worse is to come because as we climb and climb, the fog comes down.
Still chucking it down as we descend and cross into NM over the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. Fog still with us, so can't see what's below - maybe just as well as this is the second highest suspension bridge in the US. Gorge plunges 650ft either side to Rio Grande below. Me, I'm keeping my two hands on the wheel and eyes straight ahead.
Make it Taos after hairy drive and spend evening there. It's a small town - a centre for the arts and 'new agers'. Head for Taos Inn and the Adobe Bar. Past customers have included Greta Garbo and D.H. Lawrence. More recently, Robert Redford has dropped in, but The Sundance Kid wasn't there when we called so we had to buy our own drinks. Never mind, next time perhaps - and a good proper Mexican meal made up for the disappointment! (Chris, however, still coming to terms with not meeting RR). Get over it girl.
Sun back out next morning (rain a very rare occurrence in summer according to locals) and it's onto lovely Santa Fe which sits 7,000ft up on a high plateau surrounded by the Sangre de Cristo mountains. Like Taos, rich in culture and the arts, but on the expensive side. Breakfast in local cafe costs us a few dollars more than we are used to paying. Beautiful place, though - adobe-style architecture with cathedrals and churches the colour of sand. It's a fusion of Spanish, Native American and Anglo - the mix works well. Wished we could have stayed longer, but are heading back west towards Grand Canyon.
Break journey with a stop-over at Gallup on iconic Route 66, spending night at El Rancho hotel & motel. Between 40s and 50s many film stars stayed here. Hundreds of autographed photos adorn wall in lounge, including Robert Mitchum, Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant, James Cagney and Humphrey Bogart. Former US president Ronald Regan was also a patron.
It's heyday has long gone (we picked up a room cheap), but charming El Rancho still retains a faded grandeur - and they do a breakfast to die for. Fresh fruit, French toast with bacon on the side and steaming hot coffee the best yet. Places like this have been knocked down in the past to make way for some hideous modern monstrosities. El Rancho oozes history & heritage, so thank God no developer has got his hands on it. Long may it run.