Ballarat and the Victorian Goldfields

Yarra Valley: Susan arrives to whisk us north to Ballarat - heart of the Australian Gold Rush in the mid-19th Century - and, lovely surprise, she has brought daughter Claire with her. They have dropped Peter off at work just outside Melbourne. We will return to pick him up later.
After a drive-by tour of the city's major historic attractions and architectural gems we set off for the Yarra Valley. First stop is the little village of Coldstream and a coffee shop there which also houses its own micro-brewery. The cider comes highly recommended and, after a quick sample (yum yum), we decide we must take a six-pack to Peter and Susan's home.
Next up on agenda is a trip to the Chandon Winery, part of the Louis Vuitton Group, which includes Moet Chandon. What a start to a Monday this is turning out to be.
The vineyard is quite beautiful, with red and white roses planted at the start of each line of vines and away in the distance are lush green rolling hills. It's a glorious setting, made even more impressive because we have a gorgeous sunny day to enjoy it.
After sampling some of Chandon's finest (delicious) we decide on a couple of bottles of red.
On then to Healseville in the heart of the Yarra where the three of us have lunch in a huge barn of a cafe/restaurant that houses its own winery, brewery, deli, bakery and cheesery. Great concept and, judging by the mouth-watering fare on offer and the people dining there, it works a treat.
Day is flying by. Return to Melbourne to pick up Peter and drop Claire off at her home. She is currently in the throes of moving to the St Kilda area. In a few weeks time she will be on stage in Sydney, where the musical The Boy From Oz will be attracting big audiences.
On the way to Ballarat stop off at Brighton Beach, which houses a string of iconic brightly-painted beach huts and then on to Peter and Susan's home where they are so kindly putting us up (and putting up with us) for five nights.

Malcolm and Lesley, and Blood on the Southern Cross: Peter and Susan's friends - the six of us met at Ayers Rock - very kindly give up part of their weekend to show us around Ballarat. It's chocfull of old Victorian buildings, broad tree-lined streets and avenues, and gardens.
The historic town sits on Lake Wendouree, which had been bone dry since 2002. Now, due to the recent rains, this 'dustbowl' is full of water again and a paradise for all sorts of birdlife. It has been something akin to a magical transformation.
We enjoy a lovely lunch with Malcolm and Lesley and then, after a visit to their home, a trip out to a local beauty spot (there's rather a lot in this amazing country) where we climb high up a fire-watch tower for stunning 360 degree views of the land around us.
The day ends with an evening meal at the Sovereign Hill 'gold mining town' (the waiters and waitresses are dressed in period costume) and a spectacular sound and light show called Blood on the Southern Cross - a highly impressive recreation of the Eureka Stockade in November 1854 when a rebellion over the introduction of licence fees to dig for gold led to the death of 30 miners and five goverment troops.
The uprising is seen as a significant event in Australian history - one which forced political change and subsequently led to the birth of democracy in the colony.

Sovereign Hill: Spend the day with Susan at Sovereign Hill - an absolute must-do experience in this neck of the woods.
Something along the lines of Tombstone in Arizona, it brilliantly recreates the days of gold fever when doctors and lawyers rolled up their sleeves alongside labourers and ex-convicts to toil in the mud to hunt for the elusive quartz that they hoped would make their fortune.
This is a living history museum with actors dressed in period costume (Peter and Susan's youngest son Eamon is one and, boy, did he look the part as a soldier and in his other various roles throughout the day).
You can also take a couple of underground tours of the mines, which the three of us did (they were highly enjoyable and informative) and pan for gold. People are still finding a speck or two even today, though, when we came to trying, our luck was well and truly out.
Never mind, Chris did get to hold a $50,000 bar in her hand, but did not succumb to the temptation of sticking it in her bag on the way out. Just as well, those Victorian gaols still look pretty foreboding!

Daylesford and Melbourne soccer: Peter spends part of the morning chopping sections of a tree in his garden down, not particularly ably assisted by John it has to be said, before the four of us head for Daylesford.
It's a delightful spa town set among the hills, lakes and forests of the central highlands of Victoria and where artists and writers thrive. After a quick stroll around the town's picturesque we head for lunch at a quirky cafe recommended to us by Susan's neighbour Karen - and very good it is too. We share four or five tapas dishes, washed down by a couple of the locally brewed ciders and a nice bottle of wine. It's a smashing way to spend a Saturday afternoon.
Drop John off at railway station. He is heading back to Melbourne for the evening to meet Susan and Peter's eldest son Liam. He's a soccer mad Melbourne Victory fan and his team is playing arch rivals Melbourne Heart in a keenly anticipated local derby and has invited John along.
Susan, Peter and Chris head for the gold museum. It sits on a an old mine and displays nuggets and coins and the story of the Eureka uprising.
John and Liam return late. John has enjoyed the highly-charged atmosphere - a 32,000 crowd - but Liam is not happy with the 2-2 draw and the sending off of Victory skipper and ex-Millwall hard man Kevin Muscat. (John reckons it was the worst 'tackle' he has seen since Swans and ex-Liverpool legend Tommy Smith infamously took out Tottenham's Argentine World Cup star Ossie Ardiles 30-odd years ago at the Vetch. Unlike Muscat, who saw red immediately, Tommy escaped without even a booking. After all, the former England international defender had been just a bit late, honest ref. John knows 'cause he was there).

Barbie and Ballarat: It's Sunday and Peter cooks up some great kebabs and steak and Susan serves up some fabulous sides - and we are joined by their friend, another John, and, of course, Liam. Eamon is carrying out his duties on the stages of Sovereign Hill.
Hardly able to move after great lunch we chill out for a while and let the heat of the day pass before taking a late afternoon stroll in the town's splendid botanical gardens.
We also pay a visit to the old cemetery and find not only the graves of Chinese and Australian gold rush diggers, but many from Wales, including ones from Swansea, Merthyr, Brecon, Glamorgan and Carmarthenshire.
It's a poignant reminder of those who travelled all those years ago across the wild Southern Ocean in search of a better life Down Under.
The time has come for us, too, to move on. Tomorrow we will bid Peter and Susan and family a fond farewell - they have afforded us such generosity and hospitality - and head out on The Great Ocean Road towards Adelaide on the next stage our our Oz adventure.