Chiang Mai & The Elephant Nature Park

The Elephant Whisperer - that's Sangduen 'Lek' Chailert. She is a small woman physically, but has the heart of a lion - her sole purpose in life to provide a sanctuary for Thailand's iconic but, sadly, abused animal.

We are staying in Chiang Mai - a city of temples, shrines and culture in the north of the kingdom - and have headed 60 miles north-west to the remote mist-shrouded Mae Taeng Valley to witness the work carried out at Lek's Elephant Nature Park.

This remarkable lady, an award-winning conservationist, single-handedly helps rescue and rehabilitate ill-treated Asian elephants, providing a home for them in a natural forested habitat where tree-tops play hide and seek among billowing white clouds.

There are no elephant rides at this park, and you won't see these magnificent beasts performing demeaning tricks in front of us 'farang' (foreigners). That is strictly taboo - and rightly so. But we do get the chance to get up close and personal - feeding them and helping to bathe them in the river.

Our fellow world travellers Sam and Polly, who we first met in Fiji and have kept in touch with ever since, told us of this incredible place. They spent a week here as volunteers, really getting to know the elephants and the inner workings of the haven by collecting and preparing food, cleaning shelters, digging mud pits for the gentle giants to wallow in and washing them down in the river that courses through the valley.

They were so passionate about what they described as a life-changing experience that we had to experience it for ourselves - albeit in a day. At the end of it were completely bowled over and inspired by Lek and her vision to create a happier world for elephants who after Thailand's logging ban were forced to work the urban streets of Bangkok and Phuket's sleazy nightspots as tourist fodder - their misery and despair all too obvious.

Horrified by seeing at first hand the suffering inflicted on these creatures - we fight back the tears ourselves watching a harrowing film of young elephants being systematically caged, beaten, stabbed and tortured into submission before being 'put to work' - Lek started her rescue operation back in 1992.

She started with two and today the park has 35 elephants, from babies to grand old dames more than 80 years old living a life of new-found freedom.

There are some heart-breaking sights - one whose back has been broken by overwork and carrying too heavy a load, another blinded by man simply because of her defiance - but there are some joyous and uplifting tales too. Lek and her dedicated team of mahouts (elephant caretakers) pioneer a more enlightened approach through love, care, respect and rewarding the animal rather inflicting pain to break its will.

We are thrilled to get a chance to see animals in their natural environment - ones who are not expected to work or perform circus tricks. Feeding them is an extraordinary humbling experience. These massive beasts are full on eating machines - they can't get enough melons and bananas down them, and go through tons of fruit and veg a day (though comically some are fussy, giving their cucumbers a wide berth until they've first had their fill of water melon).

Chris volunteers to help bathe them in the river. After wading out knee-deep she fills bucket after bucket with water, throwing them over the elephants' backs. They simply adore it and respond by filling their trunks and spouting out huge sprays. Wet and wild. This goes on for some 20 minutes and, though hugely rewarding, Chris reports many an aching muscle afterwards.

Bathing over, we return to a viewing deck to see them head straight for their mud pits, which they love to roll around in - ironically, just after they have had their baths. There are also a number of scratching posts to get rid of all those pesky insects and flies.

Before long it's feeding time again -we bend down and place veg and fruit into their trunks and they gently take it from us and do the rest. More please . . .

Back in Chiang Mai that night we reflect over dinner that we've enjoyed a life-changing experience too - and would implore you to think twice if anyone offers you the chance to ride an elephant in Thailand (or anywhere else for that matter).

Our advice for what its worth - don't. Instead should you ever make it to this stunning corner of South-East Asia visit the Nature Park for yourself. Spend a day here, stay overnight, or volunteer to work for a week. You will be richly rewarded by the knowledge that you are helping the elephants and supporting The Elephant Whisperer in her tireless crusade to ensure that these majestic animals never have to suffer again.